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> KYB GR2 Install, Cut Needed?
post Feb 28, 2004 - 6:12 PM
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mr_dude



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About to order some GR2s. I know with Koni's you have to cut the front struts for the insert. Is it the same with the KYBs?
The rears come with the housing (I think), but the fronts are just inserts. Do they nicely slide into place or do I need to do some cutting?


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post Feb 28, 2004 - 8:39 PM
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Digndoug



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Theres no need for any cutting, just swap out.... just be carful about the rear sway bar links, spray them down with wd-40 an let sit a few times... just cause you strip the allen , your gunn ahave to cut an spend around 100 bucks to replace... other then that, pretty easy
post Feb 29, 2004 - 10:08 PM
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MoralWarfare



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you have to cut the rears with koni, not the front, and yes KYB GR-2s will fit fine, as dign posted.


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post Feb 29, 2004 - 10:56 PM
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mr_dude



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Cool! I can' wait for 'em to come in...


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post Feb 29, 2004 - 11:03 PM
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DustyBurns30

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what has to be cut on the rear strut to install the koni's? is it the stock mounting bracket for the wheel hub?
post Feb 29, 2004 - 11:33 PM
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ghostdog



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QUOTE (DustyBurns30 @ Feb 29, 2004 - 11:03 PM)
what has to be cut on the rear strut to install the koni's? is it the stock mounting bracket for the wheel hub?

no the Koni's have a small piece that extends beyond the bottom of the strut housing. therefore they need to have a little hole made to fit the piece through.
post Mar 2, 2004 - 8:36 PM
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DustyBurns30

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oh, ok so nothing really complex. that's cool

thanks
post Mar 15, 2004 - 11:18 PM
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mr_dude



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Well I got them installed and I must say, the Eibach/KYB combo is bad ass. Makes me really want to get sway bars and strut bars now. Threw the car around a bit and was getting excellent balance (tire squealing) from all around. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions/help.

I've written down the experiences (too much to read, but easily scannable). Perhaps it will be useful for people who haven't done it. Let's just say there were some unforseen difficulties.
http://chrisritchie.org/journal/Journal.html
Pictures will come soon, just need to finish off the roll.

This post has been edited by mr_dude: Mar 15, 2004 - 11:20 PM


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post Mar 22, 2004 - 3:18 PM
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phat94celi

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QUOTE (gh0st_d0g @ Feb 29, 2004 - 9:33 PM)
QUOTE (DustyBurns30 @ Feb 29, 2004 - 11:03 PM)
what has to be cut on the rear strut to install the koni's? is it the stock mounting bracket for the wheel hub?

no the Koni's have a small piece that extends beyond the bottom of the strut housing. therefore they need to have a little hole made to fit the piece through.

Actually, the stock strut housing isn't made for changeable inserts. You have to cut the housing open at the top, take the old insert out, put the new one in, and then weld the top back on. There is also a bolt in the bottom of the struts to bolt it to the housing.
post Mar 24, 2004 - 4:36 PM
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sonar

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about to buy KYB-GR2, any1 know where can get it cheaper besides TireRack?
post Mar 24, 2004 - 5:41 PM
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5sfeTurbo

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Thats the best place, were I got mine.
post May 27, 2004 - 10:13 AM
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mikew04



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Do they make the enitre strut housing for the fronts? i can only find the cartridges for the fronts (and read that its just the cartridge you replace), and ive read that its alot easier to replace the entire strut instead of just the cartridge, and its not much more expensive. Do they sell the entire housing, or am i better off just getting the cartridges?
thanks


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post May 27, 2004 - 10:31 AM
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S_C_M



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QUOTE (phat94celi @ Mar 22, 2004 - 8:18 PM)
Actually, the stock strut housing isn't made for changeable inserts.  You have to cut the housing open at the top, take the old insert out, put the new one in, and then weld the top back on.  There is also a bolt in the bottom of the struts to bolt it to the housing.

Mostly correct, but no welding is required; the new strut is secured to the old rear housing by a bolt through the bottom. Koni supplies a rubber grommet that seals everything up to a degree, and the insert itself is completely self-contained. Still wondering why there is a misconception about the welding (or lack thereof).

mikew04, It is no more or less difficult to change out an insert than it is to do a complete housing. Either way, you have to remove the strut and spring assembly off the car, compress the spring, and remove the strut top bushing. With inserts, the only other thing you need to do is remove the threaded retention collar that holds the inserts in the housings and replace them.

This post has been edited by S_C_M: May 27, 2004 - 10:36 AM
post May 27, 2004 - 10:36 AM
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CJOHNST3



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the fronts are full replacements if your Celica had the performance option included and the KYB cartridges won't work. TireRack does not sell them, nor did they even know about that option when I bought mine. The only place to get a new full cartridge with the performance option is through Toyota - and at a whopping 250 or more each - you may be discouraged, I was.

I ended up with the KYB in the rear and Eibach Pro Kit springs all around. The fronts are still fine after 80K, but I can't help wonder how much better it would feel if I replaced the fronts too - but didn't have the extra 600 beans.

Huge difference between stock shocks / springs and the KYB Rear and Eibach springs all around combination - turns tight! - Well worth it!

Good Luck

This post has been edited by CJOHNST3: May 27, 2004 - 10:38 AM
post May 27, 2004 - 11:37 PM
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phat94celi

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QUOTE (S_C_M @ May 27, 2004 - 8:31 AM)
QUOTE (phat94celi @ Mar 22, 2004 - 8:18 PM)
Actually, the stock strut housing isn't made for changeable inserts.  You have to cut the housing open at the top, take the old insert out, put the new one in, and then weld the top back on.  There is also a bolt in the bottom of the struts to bolt it to the housing.

Mostly correct, but no welding is required; the new strut is secured to the old rear housing by a bolt through the bottom. Koni supplies a rubber grommet that seals everything up to a degree, and the insert itself is completely self-contained. Still wondering why there is a misconception about the welding (or lack thereof).

mikew04, It is no more or less difficult to change out an insert than it is to do a complete housing. Either way, you have to remove the strut and spring assembly off the car, compress the spring, and remove the strut top bushing. With inserts, the only other thing you need to do is remove the threaded retention collar that holds the inserts in the housings and replace them.

I wasn't sure about the welding. Thats what I was told when I bought mine used. Unfortunately, I never got to install them before I lost my Celi. frown.gif

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