Coolant leak from upper radiator hose, 5sfe |
Coolant leak from upper radiator hose, 5sfe |
Feb 26, 2013 - 1:15 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '12 From Hanford/Fresno, Ca Currently Offline Reputation: 20 (100%) |
So I've been having issues with my cooling system for a long while now. It just never bothered me til now. I took a look at it after my bro drove it back from school. Which was about 20 min away most of it was on the highway. I popped open the hood just to look around and check my fluid levels since the engine is warm. I noticed it started leaking AGAIN at the upper radiator hose. It's leaking through the inner threads of the radiator hose. Now the side that connects to the engine. The color of the coolant that was leaking was brownish? I'm thinking it might be rust. The last cooling system flush I did was almost a year ago. At that time I had replaced thermostat, thermostat housing, top and bottom radiator hose, both ECT sensors, radiator cap, radiator and the fan temp sensor. My thermostat is designed to open at 175 degrees Fahrenheit. I know it opens because when I touched my bottom radiator hose it was warm but my top radiator hose was hot. I'm just wandering why it'll leak in the inner thread? Only possible answer is possible over pressure? Blockage in the engine somewhere? Any suggestions besides doing another cooling system flush?
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Feb 27, 2013 - 8:31 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 11, '08 From Auckland, New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
those clamps are ok too aslong as you dont over tighten, im just really over the Tbar ones you have to overtighten them or they dont seal.
at the very least, i recommend a genuine toyota cap. years ago I had a generic autoparts radiator cap and i could never figure out why my hoses kept ballooning and then getting sucked in it was because my sh*tty radiator cap wasnt working, and the system wasn't able to breathe as normal how are you flushing it btw? I blast it with water through the upper hose (reverse flush) and loosely throttle the lower hose (other end) with my hand so it builds up a little pressure and forces out gunk, after i do the same process to the heater core and turbo water lines separately -------------------- Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC 269awhp / 273ft-lbs |
Feb 27, 2013 - 12:20 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '12 From Hanford/Fresno, Ca Currently Offline Reputation: 20 (100%) |
those clamps are ok too aslong as you dont over tighten, im just really over the Tbar ones you have to overtighten them or they dont seal. at the very least, i recommend a genuine toyota cap. years ago I had a generic autoparts radiator cap and i could never figure out why my hoses kept ballooning and then getting sucked in it was because my sh*tty radiator cap wasnt working, and the system wasn't able to breathe as normal how are you flushing it btw? I blast it with water through the upper hose (reverse flush) and loosely throttle the lower hose (other end) with my hand so it builds up a little pressure and forces out gunk, after i do the same process to the heater core and turbo water lines separately The way I flushed it was flushed the radiator first then I shove water hide through the upper then the lower afterwards. I never flushed my heater core before. I don't know how you're suppose to do that. Another method I've tried before was let the car run with the radiator plug open and the water hose is jn where the radiator cap with the heater on all the way hot and all the way on. My heater works fine btw. -------------------- |
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