Fueling Issue, Fuel pump primes but does not run with engine on |
Fueling Issue, Fuel pump primes but does not run with engine on |
Mar 18, 2013 - 12:52 AM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Jan 26, '09 From Los Angeles Currently Offline Reputation: 1 (100%) |
I just completed my 3rd gen 3SGTE swap. I am using the 3S engine harness with the 5S body harness and mated the EA1 plugs according to Manny's progress thread and cross referenced a few other threads.
The 3 leftover wires from the EA1 merge are white/black stripe, black/orange stripe, and blue/red stripe. I grounded the white/black stripe. Then, I connected the two others to a orange wire and ran that straight to the positive terminal battery. I go inside, turn the key, fuel pump (walbro) primes and I start the engine. Engine runs for 20 seconds and then dies. I then jumped the B+ to the Fp with a paper clip and it ran fine until I noticed the paper clip smoking so I turned the engine off. Did some researching and found Lagos' thread on running 12ga wire to a relay to power the fuel pump Rewire Fuel Pump so I did exactly that and guess what. Same issue of shutting off after 20 seconds. Same issue as Fate but he isn't responding to my PMs So I did some more researching and found this post: yes, you can ditch the fuel pump relay, but if you do , you have to rewire it to work. the fuel pump relay is used so that the fuel pump can go from Hi to LOW power mode. at least thats how it is on the 2nd gen motor. -Charlie So I messaged him (don't expect a response since he posted this back in 06 ahaha) to see how he did it. Here are my thoughts: -Straight up connect Pin 1 from the COR to the Fuel Pump (is this what Charlie up there meant?) Or do I jump pins 1 and 4 on the Fuel Pump Relay? -If I go straight from the COR to the fuel pump, the relay couldn't switch to Hi/LOW power mode. Is that ok? Here's another diagram (sorry it's to another site): 3SGTE wiring diagram Will the COR properly operate the fuel pump if it is directly wired to it? Side note: I promise I'll update my progress thread later. Just want this figured out! THANKS FOR ANY INPUT! As you can see, I have exhausted my searching functions haha -------------------- |
Mar 18, 2013 - 11:32 AM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Feb 11, '08 From Auckland, New Zealand Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
from the looks,
its okay to just cut the plug from the resistor pack and bridge it? ^^ Dustin and I bypassed my FPR on my 3s as the harness didn't come with the relay and the car runs fine. It does run a little rich, wideband reads around 14.6 at idle, fairly normal. but havent had any readings during pulls yet. exhaust pops here and there but I'm going to try and get a tune to help with that, or add a relay. thats how you make the fuel pump whirr all the time huh? -------------------- Mike W
1996 Toyota Celica ST205 GT-FOUR GT2860RS turbine, TiAL mvr44, JE 86.5φ piston, Clutchmasters FX400, APEX P-FC 269awhp / 273ft-lbs |
Mar 18, 2013 - 11:44 AM |
|
Enthusiast Joined Mar 8, '09 From Westport, MA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
from the looks, its okay to just cut the plug from the resistor pack and bridge it? ^^ Dustin and I bypassed my FPR on my 3s as the harness didn't come with the relay and the car runs fine. It does run a little rich, wideband reads around 14.6 at idle, fairly normal. but havent had any readings during pulls yet. exhaust pops here and there but I'm going to try and get a tune to help with that, or add a relay. thats how you make the fuel pump whirr all the time huh? He also asked if it would be okay if the pump ran on high all the time, I simply told him my experience with the pump running full power all the time. -------------------- st205 powered ss3 coupe
|
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: December 2nd, 2024 - 9:56 AM |