Building the 7A-FE, Lots of pics!!!!!!! |
Building the 7A-FE, Lots of pics!!!!!!! |
Mar 2, 2010 - 6:20 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 8, '03 From Lancaster CA Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
Well i rebuilt Eryn's ST last weekend. I took as many pictures as I could
Here is the block, all pretty and blue The underside of the block and where the main bearings are installed These are the main bearings, old on the left and new on the right. make sure you use the same size and plastigauge to double check clearances Main bearing installed Plastigauge on the main journals, do this on every journal Install Main caps in order, look at the number and arrow is pointing to #1 Torque to 44lbs remove caps and check clearances. .0015" clearance is good! Remove crank and clean off plastigauge, apply assembly lube generously Lay crank back on bearings and apply more lube More lube on main cap bearing, my daddy always says, you can never have too much lube rod cap, make sure you line them up and install the correct cap on the rod This is the wrong match you want an M not a goofy looking triangle like this More lube on the rod bearing Using a spring compressor, install the piston and rod assembly make sure you install the correct piston according to the mark on the block. This is actually wrong. #1 piston in a #2 spot. you can see the marks on the block in the circle Piston installed (wrong one...oops) Take one of the old rings and break it, use this piece to clean the gunk out of the ring lands Top of dirty piston, i didnt get a pic of it after i cleaned it Marks on the block to identify piston size Another shot of the wrong cap and rod together Do not do this! Crap collected in ring lands, look at the oil ring, this is why you burn oil, the ring is too gunked up to expand Cleaned out piston Damaged bearings Amazingly the crank was fine, look at the bearing!!!!! New piston installed, the old one had some damage on it. Something bad happened in this engine Head all cleaned up Removing the keepers and retainers, I use a socket and smack it with a dead blow hammer. Look at these exhaust valves, nastyness! After a good cleaning on the wire wheel These are the valve guide seals, most of them fell apart like this when removed. another reason for burnign oil and smoking Intake valve, look at the awesomeness collected on there, think flow imporved after a good cleaning? These are the marks on the crank to identify what main bearing to install This is the new oil pump gasket Oil pump installed #1 oil pan after a good sand blasing These numbers on the bottom of the block also identify what piston to install These numbers match up with the numbers on the crank to identify what main bearing to install Cleaned up rear main seal housing Seal before pressed into housing On an engine stand this area is a little tight, but you can get in there New gasket for rear main seal Rear main seal installed Install #1 oil pan, originally these 2 bolts were hex bolts, PITA to get out so i replaced with regular bolts Here you can see the hex bolts and regular bolts that are used to secure the oil pan New oil pickup gasket Install oil pickup Install windage tray Install #2 oil pan Top view, pistons installed. Make sure assembly rotates Install new head gasket Install head on block, torque head bolts to 22 lbs in specific order, then turn each bolt 90 degrees, then turn each bolt another 90 degrees Insert shimm and bucket assembly, I oopsed in this pic also, got them backwards Right shimms installed, exhaust cam in position Install new cam seal Check timing marks, make sure the dots line up during the cam rotations New water pump seal New water pump Install crank timing gear You can barely see the indent on the gear that lines up with that small dot on the oil pump, these are timing marks New idler pully Tighten pully out of the way like so Here you can see the timing marks Once belt is installed, release tensioner and then re-tighten it I lose my scribe so pics will be less detailed here are the timing covers installed and water pump pully installed AC bracket and alternator bracket Intake manifold is installed back on, clean surface of water sensor pipe Apply FIPG on sensor pipe Installed on head this is the power steering pump bracket Install wiring harness back on the engine Install cover plate, sorry i dont have pics for flywheel and clutch install, then bolt tranny to block Lowering assembly into engine bay. Sorry i dont have any more pics. i lost my scribe and i was install mode. I didnt have time to take pics and write down details. Engine is running smoothly and has quite a bit of pep for a 7A-FE. Turbo install will be coming next in the near future. phew, ill add detailed comments tomorrow -------------------- 2001 Celica GT-S Turbo
1997 Supra TT 6speed 1997 Celica 3MZ/1MZ swap 1990 Celica All-Trac |
May 17, 2013 - 4:48 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 29, '12 From NC Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Do these engines not have specifications? piston to wall clearance, ring end gap, main and rod bearings? i seen the use of a plastigauge which works but is crude. Just looking for clearance spec's, if anyone has them please reply back it would be greatly appreciated.
-------------------- Cleaning and improving my new found yoter little by little. |
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