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> st215 gauges in a st204??
post Jun 29, 2013 - 11:47 PM
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match220



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I wasn't sure whether or not I should post this in "electrical" or this section..so I posted it here..it should fit more here I think.


So I have the adapter that I posted about here, which I have yet to post an update too since I had to redesign my adapter. And the adapter works, but I haven't wired it in fully, just connected the wire tips together. Anyway, I have been thinking about getting ST215 gauges and making them fit in the Celica. The only real reason for this is the individual coils I'm running. My Autronic SM4 computer can control the gauges, and I'm hoping that the gauges are similar enough between the two cars that the engine speed, gas gauge, and temp gauge would work. I've been thinking about getting motorcycle gauges and putting them in the car, but I would need to find some that have the same miles that my car has so I can pass my safety check. There is a nice set of gauges on ebay, and it also shows the back of them very clearly, clear enough for me to trace out the wires and try to mock up a rewire and ponder whether it will work or not. The only concerns are whether it will fit or not, and if the gas gauge will not only work, but be accurate. Also the speed sensor compatibility, and temp gauge. I know a guy that is running an autronic in his st215, I can ask him if the RPM signal wire worked with his gauges. The motorcycle gauges would take more of a rewire, but they would give me the option to put my other little 52mm gauges behind the steering wheel since the moto gauges are in such a small housing. Plenty of space, just more rewiring, and no gas gauge.

Ebay gauges
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JDM-Toyota-Caldina...11a&vxp=mtr

So my only question is whether anyone has a gauge wiring diagram of the st215, or at least knows where I can look to find one.

This post has been edited by match220: Jun 29, 2013 - 11:48 PM


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve
 
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post Jul 4, 2013 - 1:57 PM
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pitcelica

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I still don't understand why you want to do all this when all you need is a tach adaptor (like the one you tried to build in the other thread) and a new coolant sender unit. For the coolant sender unit, did you use the third wire in the ST215 coolant sensor connector? If so, then this is your problem. You need to use your ST20X 1-wire coolant temp sender. Simply drill and tap a hole into the ST215 water outlet and install the 1-wire coolant sender from your ST20X previous engine and feed the wire all the way to your coolant gauge. Your speedo should work if you are using the ST20X tranny/speed sensor.

Anyway, this is how I did it in my swap (ST184 to ST215) and all the gauges worked perfectly.

Sam
post Jul 4, 2013 - 3:13 PM
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match220



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QUOTE (pitcelica @ Jul 4, 2013 - 8:57 AM) *
I still don't understand why you want to do all this when all you need is a tach adaptor (like the one you tried to build in the other thread) and a new coolant sender unit. For the coolant sender unit, did you use the third wire in the ST215 coolant sensor connector? If so, then this is your problem. You need to use your ST20X 1-wire coolant temp sender. Simply drill and tap a hole into the ST215 water outlet and install the 1-wire coolant sender from your ST20X previous engine and feed the wire all the way to your coolant gauge. Your speedo should work if you are using the ST20X tranny/speed sensor.

Anyway, this is how I did it in my swap (ST184 to ST215) and all the gauges worked perfectly.

Sam


The tach adapter that I made works, (the second revision that I mention in the other thread).

And I mentioned earlier that it ISN'T the sending unit. It is the gauge. I put a NEW sending unit in for the previous engine and used an adapter so that it fit in the coolant neck. For me to pass the safety inspection I had to wire a resistor inline with the sending unit, that way the normal operating temp would be displayed. They didn't care about the RPM gauge not working.

So I need a new gauge cluster anyway because I have one dead gauge and one gauge using an adapter to function.


--------------------
-Jay

95 GT conv. project car: Manual, Gen III 3sgte, JN pisons, Eagle rods, overbore, crank knife-edged, crank scraper, ARP head/main/flywheel, Autronic EMS, Haltech Dual Wideband O2 controller, Audi 1.8T individual coils, FMIC and SSQV BOV, 3" downpipe, 3" ultra-high-flow cat, 2.5" Borla muffler, +other
01 S2000: FMIC, Haltech EMS, Haltech wideband, 570cc inj, forged pistons/rods, sleeved block, 5 angle valve job, ported and polished
02 R6, all stock, except for braided stainless brake lines, frame sliders, and adjustable brake/clutch leve

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