st 204 turbo Options

[thorshammer]

Hi I have a st204 Celica with 5fse engine and am wanting o turbo it. I have read 1bwilson's and Shid's posts on turboing a 5sfe and list of components needed and this seems to be the best way to go. In my neck of the woods CT26 turbos are hard to come by, T3/T4 turbo is easier to sourc.e My question is what T3/T4 do I need and other than a CT26-T3/T4 adaptor is there anything else I need. I live in Australia so Mustangs and other American cars are not common here but plenty of Japanese sources. Thanks

[lagos]

You can use the 98+ head too. You just gotta put all the electronics from yours into the newer engine. The crank angle sensor can be left unplugged into any ECU but installed onto the engine for later use with the megasquirt, yes.

Can't you just use the crank angle sensor inside the distributor on a 5sfe?
I know some 5s models came with an actual crank sensor, but on the 3sgte we take both crank (NE) and Cam (G1/G2) from the distributor.

It requires a few modifications to use (particularly installing a Zeal Dual VR conditioner board.

It might require the Zeal board, but only if you are using the standard MS2/PCB setup. The DIYPNP kit (microsquirt based) I used on my 3s had an optional LM1815 circuit included, but I never needed to use it. All I had to do was install a 33 kohm pull down resistor, to lower the pickup threshold for the the cam signal. The NE crank signal had no problems being picked up with or without a pull down resistor.

Because of this I think the DIYPNP kits are the best solutions for the 5s/3s. Same setup that I have should work with a 5s distributor (aren't all toyota distributors 24-1?) , and if you happen to find out that you need to run the signal through the conditioner, there is one included on the circuit board.

You might be able to get a crank only setup to work, but personally Id rather have sequential injection.

This post has been edited by lagos: Jul 8, 2013 - 10:41 PM

[Syaoran]

You can use the 98+ head too. You just gotta put all the electronics from yours into the newer engine. The crank angle sensor can be left unplugged into any ECU but installed onto the engine for later use with the megasquirt, yes.

Can't you just use the crank angle sensor inside the distributor on a 5sfe?
I know some 5s models came with an actual crank sensor, but on the 3sgte we take both crank (NE) and Cam (G1/G2) from the distributor.

It requires a few modifications to use (particularly installing a Zeal Dual VR conditioner board.

It might require the Zeal board, but only if you are using the standard MS2/PCB setup. The DIYPNP kit (microsquirt based) I used on my 3s had an optional LM1815 circuit included, but I never needed to use it. All I had to do was install a 33 kohm pull down resistor, to lower the pickup threshold for the the cam signal. The NE crank signal had no problems being picked up with or without a pull down resistor.

Because of this I think the DIYPNP kits are the best solutions for the 5s/3s. Same setup that I have should work with a 5s distributor (aren't all toyota distributors 24-1?) , and if you happen to find out that you need to run the signal through the conditioner, there is one included on the circuit board.

You might be able to get a crank only setup to work, but personally Id rather have sequential injection.

Again, the 3S distributor is different. If I could take a picture of the 5S 93+ distributor I would right now but I don't have a camera. Trust me when I say it's not 24-1, and it has no cam AND "crank" wheel on the distributor. It's only got 4 slanted teeth that send a particular signal that CANNOT be properly interpreted in its full extent by the traditional MS2.

DIYPNP is different. I'm talking about what I've dealt with which is MS2, and now will deal with MS3X. In reality, everyone should run MS2 with crank trigger wheel and wasted spark. It can run sequential injection with just the crank trigger wheel. You don't need cam and crank triggers for sequential injection. You need the cam signal only for true COP. Wasted spark works fine, though. If it didn't, Mitsubishi wouldn't have used it in the 4g63 for many years.

It's not a "might be able" to get a crank-only setup to work. It simply works. You might not have had the starting issues that I had with my 5S running on a bare MS2. Sometimes it would crank and start, sometimes it would not. The MS2 doesn't like the stock distributor wheel on the 5S. It does however love the 36-2 wheel and stock sensor.

Think about it: why try to get something to work, when something else simply just does? The DIYPNP isn't worth it when you take into consideration that the normal MS2 works fine if you use a regular crank trigger wheel.

Personally, I prefer having the wiring loom on the regular MS2 and now the MS3. I can splice in that extra connection when needed much easier than I can on the DIYPNP. I don't mean to sound condescending or anything really, I'm just sharing what I know which I believe is a lot more simple.