5sfte Valve's?, Peformance preffered |
5sfte Valve's?, Peformance preffered |
Jul 23, 2013 - 3:17 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 29, '04 From Sierra Vista, Az Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I heard the 3sgte valves work in the 5sfte build but I was hoping for something a little more performance wise. Anyone have experience with this? Wanting at least 350 hp.
-------------------- Celica Enthusiast with no experience. LoLs Looking for people closer to my area to talk/work on projects, let me know if your near 85635 Sierra Vista, Az
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Jul 23, 2013 - 6:20 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 4, '12 From US Currently Offline Reputation: 6 (100%) |
Well if that's the case, then you should go and read up on MrTurrari. He's the only one who actually has a built 5S-FE with a lot of custom work on it.
Major fault points: Cams. The springs aren't as much as an issue as the cams. In fact, 5S-FE springs are better than a lot of other performance engines'. If you wanna build a mean 5S-FE, you need a good set of cams, a custom intake manifold, a much larger TB than stock (~70mm) and all the related headwork. Valves: 2JZ-GTE valves work. Get 2JZ-GTE Toyota or aftermarket valves. Springs and retainers: 2JZ-GTE springs require the lower part of the spring to be opened up a bit. They otherwise work perfectly. A competent machine shop can do the work. Pistons: You're gonna have to get them custom made. I recommend going with CP or JE pistons for these. 87.75mm for a true 2.2L displacement. Rods: Pauter Rods are the only off-the-shelf rods for the 5S. I bought a set of unbranded Eagle rods from China (Eagle H-beam rods are not made in the USA apparently) but I haven't tested them far enough to recommend them. They did require work on the piston pin, big bore and side clearances to fit properly. Whatever you do, try to get them with whatever extra lubrication machining the manufacturer can provide (like piston pin oiling and the holes on the sides for cooling the piston with oil) which will provide extra longevity. Cams: Anything with over 8mm lift and over 220* @ 0.050" duration will do a LOT better than stock. Headwork: You'll need everything. New seats for the valves, new valve job, porting the intake side, porting and polishing the exhaust, etc. I recommend doing a shimless bucket conversion. It'll help lighten the valve train and help the engine rev easier as well as removing the risk present from using shim-over buckets (stock) Block: Line hone the main caps, bore and hone the cylinders, deck the block smooth. Electronics: Megasquirt-3/extra to control it all, could look into Haltech, ViPec, etc. Don't use the distributor. Convert to crank sensor. Get a 98+ head with the provision for the cam position sensor and the cam sprocket with the tooth for it. Full sequential injection is best. COP ignition is optional but recommended. Get a good turbo, and unless you have easy access to e85, water/meth injection is a must. You're looking at at least well over $5000 right there already, without labor costs. -------------------- 1993 Celica GT Coupe - sold
1994 Celica GT Liftback |
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