Do we have a canbus system? o.O Options

[rentaspace]

Well, I am not quite sure....
In my experiences with my LEDs EVERY time I have bought non Cbus LEDs they have started flickering and flashing after a few months, some even straight away....
About 2 months ago I decided to just check out the Cbus versions of the same LEDs and to my surprise not one has started flashing yet...


So this leads to my question, is it remotely possible that the 6th Gen Celica (Or maybe even the ADM version) has a canbus system? or have I just had a statistical anomaly lol

[travisxcore]

I've never fried any LEDs and I don't have any flickering ones at all. Honestly LEDs shouldn't even be getting hot. They don't draw nearly enough power to be doing that. That's why if you put them in some cars that do bulb diagnostics (cbus) it'll tell you that bulb is out.

Think of it like this. If you throw a 35w bulb in 65w socket is it gonna pull 65w? No it'll pull 35 watts. 35w HIDs are plugged into 55w/65w sockets and they still only draw 35w. Now maybe if your car was throwing out too much amperage somehow or youre getting a really dirty power flow but that shouldn't be an issue cause you have fuses and the battery helps keep it a stable 12v system.

I think youre just overthinking it. If we had a cbus system for our lights wed have an error code for a bulb out. Cbus systems for lights just measure the power draw to the lights. If its not at the wattage specified, it sends the message "bulb out". That's why you have to get special ones for cars like that so they trick the car into thinking hey this bulb is drawing that amount of wattage. Putting bulbs with extra resistors and stuff like that in our car is a waste of money and power cause ours doesn't care as long as it doesn't exceed the fuse

I think you should be looking into your wiring (to make sure you don't have decaying wires causing dirty power flow) or the quality of the LEDs you bought.

This post has been edited by travisxcore: Aug 11, 2013 - 8:22 AM

[rentaspace]

You're right on wattage, it's only drawn as needed. The thing with voltage though is the device takes on the full load from the source. When making your own bulbs you have to dissipate the extra voltage so that it doesn't overload the LEDs. *insert voltage badger don't care meme here* As Travis alluded to that's also why you don't run a car without a battery, as then there's a significant load decrease on the alternator and voltage can surge up to 120V frying everything in the car that can't stand up to the spike. Had a genius do that after installing a new alternator on his car to "test out the new alternator" to see if it worked. It worked all right, fried every computer in the damn thing...wanted to slap him in the face... Anyhow the calculator I posted earlier makes it really easy to figure out what you have to do with the array, and resistance and wattage values. If you're going to go through the trouble of messing with pre-made bulbs you might as well make your own. What you said about the resistors being blown tells me they're just being cheap, and they didn't use a high enough wattage resistor to stand up to the current. Also generally a car with an alternator working at its best puts out 14.4-14.6V at idle. Though based on the earlier I just think it's really shoddy LED bulbs, as the CANbus are probably of higher quality anyhow and use the proper wattage on the resistors.

See I don't actually think they are bad quality, I think it is the fact that the car produces 14v instead of 12v. The extra voltage = more heat from the resistor. coupled with lack of airflow thanks to the plastic sheath the end result is they get too hot.
Most of the LEDs say: operating voltage 9-13v. and LEDs are notorious for burning out VERY quickly when they have even slightly too much voltage...

I've never fried any LEDs and I don't have any flickering ones at all. Honestly LEDs shouldn't even be getting hot. They don't draw nearly enough power to be doing that. That's why if you put them in some cars that do bulb diagnostics (cbus) it'll tell you that bulb is out.

Think of it like this. If you throw a 35w bulb in 65w socket is it gonna pull 65w? No it'll pull 35 watts. 35w HIDs are plugged into 55w/65w sockets and they still only draw 35w. Now maybe if your car was throwing out too much amperage somehow or youre getting a really dirty power flow but that shouldn't be an issue cause you have fuses and the battery helps keep it a stable 12v system.

I think youre just overthinking it. If we had a cbus system for our lights wed have an error code for a bulb out. Cbus systems for lights just measure the power draw to the lights. If its not at the wattage specified, it sends the message "bulb out". That's why you have to get special ones for cars like that so they trick the car into thinking hey this bulb is drawing that amount of wattage. Putting bulbs with extra resistors and stuff like that in our car is a waste of money and power cause ours doesn't care as long as it doesn't exceed the fuse

I think you should be looking into your wiring (to make sure you don't have decaying wires causing dirty power flow) or the quality of the LEDs you bought.

Unfortunately, wattage and voltage are different. Yes an LED takes a hell of a lot less than an incandescent light in wattage terms, the difference is, the car produces 12 - 14v and that is what everything in the car HAS to use. The way they do this; resistors.
The LEDs themselves do not get hot at all, the resistor on the other hand is meant to get hot. Since it's job is to take the full 12v load and reduce it to the operating requirement of the LED/LEDs. Unfortunately, as box stated with Voltage, they don't 'take what they need' they have to take the full load because of Conservation of Energy, they cannot just 'discard' that energy to nothing, it has to go somewhere, and it does; heat from the resistor. As I am saying to box in this same reply, I think what has happened is that the car when idle is giving the LEDs resistor 14v+ which causes the resistor to get even hotter. Even a small change in voltage can result in an LED losing over two thirds of it's expected life.

And yes; I over think everything lol



This post has been edited by rentaspace: Aug 11, 2013 - 7:18 PM