Winter storage outdoors |
Winter storage outdoors |
Nov 29, 2013 - 8:33 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 20, '11 From gta Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Need advice. I cannot store my Celica inside this winter. I have not driven it for 3 months as well. I want to keep it long term, but don't know what I should do for upkeep it. The rust will probably get worse which is fine but I don't know if I should overinflate the tires and disconnect the battery or do nothing. Any advice is appreciated. I want to consider getting cheap indoor storage as well. Thanks!
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Nov 30, 2013 - 8:07 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 11, '06 From Way South Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
drive it for a few days to get everything moving and working, air the tires up to their max sidewall pressure, then add 10lbs to that. Park the car ontop of a very large tarp, pull the battery out of the car completely and store it inside on a battery tender, wrap the car completely in the tarp then tie rope around the car side to side and front to back to keep the tarp sealed up tight.
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Nov 30, 2013 - 8:17 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 20, '09 From Winnipeg Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
drive it for a few days to get everything moving and working, air the tires up to their max sidewall pressure, then add 10lbs to that. Park the car ontop of a very large tarp, pull the battery out of the car completely and store it inside on a battery tender, wrap the car completely in the tarp then tie rope around the car side to side and front to back to keep the tarp sealed up tight. Definitely DON'T wrap it in a tarp. Here's my process of what I do for my winter storage (see post 2) and others in my city. http://toptierimports.com/index.php?topic=1585.0 -------------------- -Protection mode, For when your amp tries to blow its load. 1995 Toyota Celica GTS - Daily Driver 1999 Chevy Cavalier - Winter Beater 1994 Honda Civic CX Hatchback - Dead My Celica! |
Nov 30, 2013 - 8:32 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 11, '06 From Way South Chicago Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
drive it for a few days to get everything moving and working, air the tires up to their max sidewall pressure, then add 10lbs to that. Park the car ontop of a very large tarp, pull the battery out of the car completely and store it inside on a battery tender, wrap the car completely in the tarp then tie rope around the car side to side and front to back to keep the tarp sealed up tight. Definitely DON'T wrap it in a tarp. Here's my process of what I do for my winter storage (see post 2) and others in my city. http://toptierimports.com/index.php?topic=1585.0 That's how I store my car in an unheated barn, it keeps it dry. So dry my brakes don't even rust. Your thread even says 'vapor barrier under it' which would be the same as parking it on a tarp. I just complete the step by wrapping the tarp over the car. No mice get into the car because they can't climb up the tarp. No edges for them to chew on if you wrap it right. All I have in the spring is a nice clean dry rust free car. If you argue about the tarp scratching, I'll argue about tying the car up like BDSM bondage keeps the tarp from moving at all in the wind. All that water and ice freezing and thawing through the window seals, sunroof drains, etc. The constant UV exposure on the tires, the constant water assaulting and rusting the brakes. No no no. Pretend it's your dick and winter is a hooker, wrap that **** up! Also, if wrapping is bad, explain how people store their $50,000 boats? -------------------- |
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