How to remove engine from car (5S-FE) Options

[Smaay]

Ok this is how I did it, some steps can be done in different orders. This is for information only and I am not responsible for any oops on your part.


Lets get started

Here is your engine bay, First remove the hood. Unplug the water line for the squirters and remove the (2) 12mm bolts on each side of the hood.









Jack the front of the car up and drain the oil.



Remove the battery







Remove the (3) 10mm bolts holding the cruise control actuator.



remove the plastic cover



Using 14mm wrenches, loosen the nuts securing the throttle cable





Unplug the cruise actuator



Now with the actuator in your hands, rotate the cable to remove it from the actuator



Unplug the radiator fans



Under the radiator, unscrew the plastic drain cock and let coolant pour out into a bucket



Unplug the Radiator temp sensor



Remove the radiator hoses









remove the (2) radiator clamps, each held in with a 12mm bolt



Unplug the other fan plug



Lift out the radiator





drain the transmission fluid, remove this bolt, its a 24mm



While that's draining, remove the stock airbox, first remove the snap clamps and the spiral clamp around the intake hose.



there are (3) 10mm bolts holding the airbox in. 2 are inside the box and the last one is outside by the fuel filter.







Remove this grounding cable, there are (2) 10mm bolts here and a single 12mm bolt on the transmission right next to the reverse switch





remove the fuse box cover



Push in the tabs to lift up the junction box (what i call it)





Unplug the harness from both sides. the white plug is a typical plug, push in the tab and lift. the large connector you have to push in the tab and rotate the lock down.







Unplug the igniter and resistor box



remove the diagnostic box





This is the EVAP purge VSV, I believe this is only on 99 Celicas. unplug it if you have it, follow the hose up to the intake manifold and unplug that too.



Loosen the other spiral clamp on the hose at the throttle body. its a 10mm head with a phillips screwdriver so either will work





This is the return fuel line, remove that and remove the fuel feed line at the filter. Its the 17mm Banjo bolt on the filter right next to the EVAP VSV



This is the MAP sensor, unplug it



This is the harness going through the firewall to the ECU. its held in by (2) 10mm nuts.



This line feeds the brake booster you can remove it from either side or both and just get it out of the way



This is a vapor filter for the MAP sensor. be careful removing the hose. you don't want to break off the nipple



Remove the passenger side foot trim. this will make it easier to pull the harness through and easier to get to the AC plug







This is the AC plug, don't forget to unplug it.



I forgot to mention these, remove the small clip to free the shifter cables, then use large pliers to get out the C clips that hold the cables in place.





Back to the ECU, unplug the ECU, Circuit Opening Relay, and the body harness.





Carefully lift out the harness



Ok lets get the alternator out of the way. First loosen the pivot bolt.



Remove the sideways bolt, that clamps the alternator in place, then take out the long tightening bolt.



remove the electrical connections







Alternator removed, Now lets get the AC compressor out of the way. First unplug it





There are (3) long 12mm bolts holding the compressor to the block. remove those and let the compressor down out of the way.









Not too much is left, by now the transmission should be drained, if you haven't done so already, put the drain plug back in. Now take off the wheels.







Remove the cotter pin and nut cover.





Stick a screwdriver in the rotor and brake caliper. this will hold it in place while removing the 30mm axle nut





Remove the ABS sensor if you have one, unclip the harness and get it out of the way





Remove the brake caliper. there are (2) 14mm bolts on the backside. once those are out remove the brake pads.



Smack the axle with a dead blow hammer. this will knock it out of the hub



Remove the (2) 19mm bolts from the hub to strut. pull the hub away and the axle will be free



With a friend holding the axle straight and rotating it, use a pry bar on the CV housing at the transmission and pop out the axle. It will come, you just need to find the sweet spot.







The passenger side is easier, remove the (2) 14mm bolts from the axle bearing carrier and the axle will slide right out



Spray some penetrating oil on the exhaust bolts. let that sit for a while and then remove the 3 bunts holding the downpipe to the header.



Remove the locking bolt on the power steering pump.



I should have circled it, loosen the pivot bolt on top of the power steering bolt, if you can get it out here, that's awesome, I had to jack the engine up to get clearance.



Here is another pic of the fuel return line unplugged and the feed line. if you haven't done so, remove them now.





Remove the 2 water lines for the heater.





Its hard to see here, but looking in through the drivers side wheel area, this is the rear engine mount bolt. its in the shadows. If its hard to get out, come back to it after removing the front mount. rock the engine and you should be able to pull it out.



Remove the Front engine mount, its a 17mm bolt through the mount. then remove the (2) 14mm bolts on the bottom. lift out the mount. then remove the bracket from the transmission.



Now get your hoist ready and hook up.



Remove the starter, first the 12mm nut for the hot feed, then the ground plug. there are (2) 14mm bolts on each side holding it on the transmission.



Unplug the reverse switch to get it out of the way.



Now free the slave cylinder. remove the 10mm bolt securing the hard line, the (2) 12mm bolts on the slave and the 10mm bolt in front of the transmission







Remove the drivers side engine mount. its a 14mm long bolt and (2) 14mm nuts and a short bolt. then remove the bracket from the transmission. Those are 14mm also







Remove the passenger side engine mount.











Start to lift the engine, here you can see the power steering bolt that gave me trouble. now you can pull it out and set the power steering pump aside



And out it comes







And finally the MONEY SHOT



This post has been edited by Smaay: Feb 27, 2014 - 6:07 PM

[Smaay]

they take about 6 hours to make, i think i can sell them for about 500 bucks. it will have a lifetime warranty to never crack