white convertible Gen III 3s build, Gen3 3s + FMIC + EMS + lightweight crank + GTFour front = fun Options

[match220]

Member name: Jay
Market: USDM
Year: 95
Model: GT
Frame & Type: ST204 convertible
Engine: factory --> swapped. 5S-FE --> Gen III 3sgte
transmission: stock

Update: Just installed an Innovate Motorsports dual gauge, pressure/temp gauge with two 3-way switches, one for selecting between coolant and oil pressure and one for selecting between coolant and oil temp. (Jan 2015)

Video of the car running here! and a time lapse video of the GTFour front end install here

(recent pic Jan 2016)


installed 7th gen steering wheel from a shiftronic model Celica!! Found in junkyard for cheap. Using the buttons for I/C sprayers.


I figure it's about time for me to start my old thread again. I bought a 3sgte that had been parted out, got it for a good deal, but I needed a lot of hard to find parts. I would start a thread when I was on a roll then I hit a stopping point because of a lack of certain key parts. Spent a long time trying to find everything, and now I have all of the engine parts and I'm not too far from completion.



Significant other mods:
Engine block basics:
45k miles
.20 overbore, JN pistons, eagle rods (compression raised to 9.0:1)
stock head gasket
knife-edged crankshaft (with custom crank scraper to block oil from being kicked up inside the engine and keep it in the pan)
ARP main studs (with the little section shaved out of the oil pan for them to fit)

Engine head:
non-turbo 3sge head WITH turbo cams/springs and 3sgTe powder coated valve cover
HKS cam adjustable cam gears (currently set at 0)
ARP head studs

Accessories:
4th gen alternator, direct bolt in (and higher output)
4th gen compressor, direct bolt in
stock power steering pump (new though)

Electrical:
Autronic SM4 EMS
4 wire o2 sensor upgrade (currently not in use)
Haltech Dual Channel Wideband controller (one sensor), output to ecu.
Innovate Motorsports dual series pressure/temperature gauge
Two 3-way switches to select between oil/coolant pressure and oil/coolant temp in dual gauge
3-way switch triggering secondary relays to turn the fans on. (switch off = relay off, system works as if stock...switch on pos1 = relays triggered on and fans are always on...switch on pos2 = relay is triggered on when the EMS is set to trigger it on.

Turbo:
stock CT20b
FMIC air/air for Nissan S14/S15(removed/replaced)
Mishimoto FMIC mounted to crashbar
HKS SSQV BOV
MAP sensor is built in to the Autronic
K&N filter (with blue rim) conical 4 inch inlet
stock VSV controlled by Autronic

Trans:
stock st204 5sfe trans
Aisin clutch with TRD pads riveted in place
Fizanda flywheel

Fuel:
stock genIII injectors, upgraded fuel pump (walbro, gss342 for mazda mx3)

Coolant sys:
Mishimoto radiator
Silicone hoses (blue )
3-way switch controlling two 5-pin relays breaking the connection for the stock fans (on/off/on = relay-on.always-ground/relay-off.factory-controlled-fans/relay-on.SM4-controlled)

Ignition system:
Audi 1.8t individual coils
distributor is stock and the pickup inside is only used to give the Autronic the engine time. (set at 0 degrees instead of normal advance, timing is advanced in the ECU)
NGK iridium IK24 spark plugs(killed by strong Audi ign coils)
BKR6E plugs (have to change every 10k miles)

Exhaust:
aftermarket downpipe (3inch)
3 inch mandrel bent piping into 3 inch magnaflow catalytic into 2.5 inch reducer (interchangeable resonator if I unbolt the cat)
2.5 inch piping into Borla universal turbo muffler

Other:
cheap ebay breather filter for crank vent.
custom air filter heat shield
custom battery tray mounted above trans mount
custom fuse box for SM4 and extra components
modified washer fluid reservoir to mount around FMIC piping

Wiring was a little bit of a mess at this stage because I was in the middle of building the new harness...




This post has been edited by match220: Mar 21, 2016 - 8:05 PM

[match220]

1 year update! (almost)

in short: Put in prebent mandrel tubing with couplers to replace the intake piping, rewired the fusebox, put in a mishimoto radiator, and used some 3-way switces to combine the signals from my oil/water temp sensors and oil/water pressure sensors so I now have 2 gauges where 4 were, along with some other small mods.

Car is still running strong, I'm planning on making a new youtube video. Had some issues with the factory radiator fans two weeks ago. The 100 amp alternator fuse had a bad connection and just shut off. After looking over the fuses and seeing none blown, taking off the relay covers so I could manually move the relays when the Ign was on I realized the 100 amp fuse problem. Pull out the fuse, and realized I cant clean the connections as thoroughly as I would like, so I put in another fuse and it worked great will a few days ago when it did the same thing. SO I'm now putting in backup 5 pin relays in line with the rad fans. One on each pos fan wire using a 5 pin relay with the normally closed connection on the relay connecting the wire as normal, and the normally open pin connected to the backup power source. Positive conected to the battery and the negative connected to a 3-way switch that would be wired as always-ground/off/EMS-ground-trigger. I'm waiting on the 5-pin relays. After I receive them I will put an update here to revive my build project. Basically when it's done I'll have a fully functioning stock electrical system that can be switched off by my EMS if it is on one setting of the 3-way switch, or fans that are always on if I flip the switch the other way, or I could just leave the switch in the off position for the system to work like it is supposed to.

Unfortunately when my fans cut out I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic, temp shot up, as did the radiator pressure, resulting in a crack in my radiator 6 inches wide and 2 inches tall forcing a large amount of coolant on my engine and a mushroom cloud of steam. Of course that means me getting an all aluminum radiator! I paid for a Megan Racing radiator and they said they were out, so the sent me a Mishimoto radiator, which I'm happy with.

I put in a water pressure sensor 6 months ago through a 3-way switch, and also ran my oil and water temps into a 3 way switch that goes out to one gauge. So the wiring for both water/oil pressure and water/oil temp are wired as oil/off/water, so I can switch between them at will!

I upgraded my fuse box not long after I got the car running last year, and I'm going to have to make some more changes to wure in the turbotimer and the Jetta power distribution box I got.

I plasti-dipped a GTFour hood that I got in the mail because it was all black and dinged up a lot (how resistent are these hoods to rocks and things that might hit it while on a freeway??? since they are in fact aluminum and lightweight)

Just switched to 5w-20 full synthetic last week, developed a small oil leak that is getting my oil filter wet but nothing else above it, so I'm hoping it's just the oil filter seal. And before that, my cheap chinese oil pressure sensor that I bought blew a seal, so I plugged the hole with one of my 1/8NPT plugs and ordered another cheap chinese oil pressure sensor/gauge .

This post has been edited by match220: Mar 8, 2014 - 10:28 AM