Doesn't always start the first try, cranks a long time, can you hear the fuel pump prime when you first hit the key? Options

[VavAlephVav]

Ever since I've had the Celica I have thought that when I hit the key to start it that it takes several seconds of cranking before I get ignition.
lately it's even gotten as bad as not starting on the first try, sometimes not on the second try until it finally starts the third time. but It doesn't always do it, sometimes it starts right up.
I try not to immediately hit the key to start but I like to turn it to ON for a few seconds for the fuel pump to prime before I turn the key to on. But when I do I cannot hear the fuel pump, on most every other
car I've had, chevy, jeep, dodge, mazda, I have always been able to hear the fuel pump make a little wirrrr sound when you first hit the key. especially when I know the pump is right under the back seat not more than 2 feet away from me I figure I should be able to hear it, but I dont'.
I do have a brand new fuel filter, and I run Top Tier gasoline. First, can you guys Hear your fuel pump when you start it up? or is it normal to not hear it?
Do you think this is a fuel pump problem or something else? I do need to take the throttle body off and clean the Idle Air Control and calibrate the TPS. but idk if that effects starting much. maybe its just crap in the fuel pump screen, but I bet it's the 20 year old stock pump and a Denso reman is only $80 on RockAuto and as long as it's so easy to get to I'll replace it anyway.
I'd rather be proactive about something like a fuel pump then have to get stuck somewhere because of it.
I have a 5sfe from a 98+ camry and I don't think it has a cold start injector.

[VavAlephVav]

here's the info from the flow chart under "Difficult to Start or No Start (cranks OK)"

Check diagnosis system --> diagnostic codes
|
normal
|
does engine start with accelerator depressed? --> ISC system 1) ISC valve 2) wiring connection
|
no
|
Check for vacuum leaks in air intake line --> 1. oil filler cap 2. oil dipstick 3. hose connections 4. pcv hose 5. EGR system - egr valve stays open
|
OK
|
Check ignition spark --> 1. plug wires 2. distributor 3. ignition coil 4. igniter
|
OK
|
Check spark plugs no --> compression / valve clearance
| BAD(wet plugs) --> 1. injectors shorted or leaking 2. cold start injector leakage 3. injector wiring - shorted 4. cold start injector time switch
OK
|
Check fuel supply to injector 1. fuel tank 2. pressure in fuel hose at filter Bad --> 1. fuel line 2. fuses 3. fuel pump 4. fuel pressure regulator
|
OK
|
Check ignition timing Bad --> adjust timing
|
OK
|
check EFI electronic circuit using volt meter --> 1. wiring connection 2. power to ecu 3. vacuum sensor 4. water temp sensor 5. air temp sensor 6. injection signal circuit









this seems to be for the old 5sfe as it mentions the cold start injector, i should find a manual for a 98+ camry, though i bet it's not too much different.
I know my plugs, wires, cap and rotor are new but i might check if the plugs are still tight. i think going down the list i should inspect vacuum leaks and the EGR circuit.
but also when i replaced the pcv it was kindov a beatch to squeeze it in the right place and it probably isnt air-tight. so ill start by looking at those. I should stop at an autozone and have them check the codes for me too.