Grinding in third gear., Mainly when down shifting. |
Grinding in third gear., Mainly when down shifting. |
Jul 16, 2014 - 12:20 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined May 13, '14 From Savannah, GA Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
So I've been having a problem with third gear. When shifting through gears some times 3rd grinds when going from 2nd to 3rd. But when down shifting it grinds every time, 4th to 3rd. Anyone had this problem or know what it could be?
As always thanks for any help! -T |
Jul 17, 2014 - 12:17 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 23, '12 From Warrior, AL Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Those transmissions were also designed to run on Synchromesh, where as these were not. It's like saying, "Well a lot of Borg Warner transmissions in Fords used ATF, so I guess that's just dandy in anything else I deem fit." A lot of older Honda transmissions used straight up 5W-30 motor oil. What works for one doesn't work for all.
This post has been edited by Box: Jul 17, 2014 - 12:22 AM -------------------- 2001 Miata LS 5-speed
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Jul 17, 2014 - 8:29 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jun 18, '09 From Orlando Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) |
Those transmissions were also designed to run on Synchromesh, where as these were not. It's like saying, "Well a lot of Borg Warner transmissions in Fords used ATF, so I guess that's just dandy in anything else I deem fit." A lot of older Honda transmissions used straight up 5W-30 motor oil. What works for one doesn't work for all. I've had SynchroMesh only for a year without issue. -------------------- '97 ST \ Eibach \ KYB \ Kenwood \ Alpine \ Cusco \ OEM+ [sold 10/18]
'93 MX-5 LE |
Jul 17, 2014 - 12:52 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Feb 23, '12 From Warrior, AL Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Those transmissions were also designed to run on Synchromesh, where as these were not. It's like saying, "Well a lot of Borg Warner transmissions in Fords used ATF, so I guess that's just dandy in anything else I deem fit." A lot of older Honda transmissions used straight up 5W-30 motor oil. What works for one doesn't work for all. I've had SynchroMesh only for a year without issue. There have been DSM's use straight Synchromesh and their transmissions turn into slurry. Then again you're talking cheap gearboxes anyway, so if you're in that desperate of a situation to remedy it then I guess anything is worth a shot. The trick to rpm matching is to force pop the shifter into neutral and then apply force to shift it into the next gear. Let off the throttle and allow the rpms to slowly drop. As soon as the rpm of the motor hits the speed of that gear, it will kick into the gear, without the clutch. Due to the shape of the gear teeth, it only works if the motor is loosing rpm, so if you downshift you have to first rev the engine in neutral and then apply shifter pressure as the rpms fall (since you are shifting to a lower gear with higher rpm). Probably best to practice with 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th until you get smooth at it, they are more forgiving than 3rd or 2nd. Like I said slowly drop the rpms, you dont want to totally lift your foot of the throttle. Even if you are using the clutch you should still develop a feeling for the rpm matching. With the clutch I just know how LONG to lift my foot off the throttle and when to release the clutch pedal to hit the rpms perfectly. I probably do half my shifts in the car without the clutch and 100% of my shifting on my motorcycle without the clutch, its much smoother. Floating the gears really comes in handy with left foot braking, which is your BFF in a FWD car. -------------------- 2001 Miata LS 5-speed
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