Throttle Body Coolant Bypass (with pics), Want to bypass the coolant flow to your Throttle Body on you 5SFE? Options

[Spider77]

So, after quite a few PM's on how to do this I finally broke down and took some pics. You will notice however that I did not put everything back to "factory settings", ie, I just took a few pictures and hope that they'll help the ones who want to know how to do this.
First off though, a warning:
****THE COOLANT WILL BE HOT AFTER RUNNING THE ENGINE, THEREFORE TO AVOID BURNS I STRONGLY SUGGEST THAT YOU LET THE ENGINE/COOLANT SYSTEM COOL DOWN BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO THIS, I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR PERSONAL HARM THAT MAY BE CAUSED WHILE ATTEMPTING THIS, YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED****

STEPS:
1:) You want to start by disconnecting your SRI/CAI/Stock Intake at the throttle body:

2:) Disconnect the 4 Vac lines (three on top, one that sits lower):

3:) Disconnect the Throttle Cables (one for Man, two for Auto):

4:) Remove TB by pulling the 4 12 mm bolts:

5:) Remove TB from Intake Plenum:

6:) You will notice three lines hooked into the TB, two outside line (coolant) and one middle line (vac). You want to "bypass" the TB by linking the two coolant lines together, using a 5/16th brass bard (male to male) fitting and screw clamps to tighten it down. Please do not use existing hardware as its probably been sitting there for a while and chances are it wont stand up. Please use new hardware (screw clamps).




7: After you insert brass barb (male to male fitting) and tighten down the screw clamps, you might want to install some vac caps on the coolant ports. Although I cant say if its required, for me its just piece of mind):

8: Reattach the Vac line (its the middle port)!

8.5: Totally optional, but at this time I did a minor cleaning of the TB, and the butterfly valve. Not required, but while its open, might as well, right?
9: Check your work. This is what you should have, two coolant lines "looped" together, two coolant ports capped (optional), and the Vac line (the middle port) reattached. Make sure that your screw clamps are tight (either use a socket or the right size four point to make sure its super tight...don't want leaks), and again, check another time. Once you are sure everything is done, place your throttle body back on the intake plenum, place the SRI/CAI/Stock Intake back on, and enjoy!

While I can not say this is how it is for different engines, the concept is the same. So, for all those people PM'ing me, this is how you do it (again ,mind you its not a pure step by step, but you'll get the idea), and for those who want to know how to TB Bypass on the 5SFE, here you go!
I hope this can help answer this question to some extent. If anyone sees anything wrong with this (ie mislabeling please let me know so I can correct).
Thanks and hope you enjoy!

[VavAlephVav]

I examined the Idle Speed Control Valve when I had my throttle-body off and was trying to get it to idle right.
On the back side of the ISCV is the cover plate with two small screws, and it is slightly adjustable. I meant to take some pics of this while I had it off but ran out of time.
inside there is a slot-n-groove contraption that holds a Bi-metal spring in place. now, the idle speed is controlled by turning the little valve inside to adjust the exact amount of air allowed into the intake when the throttle plate is closed(idling).
on the front side is the magnetic coil which the computer uses to control the position of the idle valve, on the back side of the rod that controls the idle valve is this Bi-metal spring.
a bi-metal spring is simply a device made of two different metals, maybe steel and brass or something, and as they get hot the two metals expand at different rates and cause the coiled spring to expand in a particular way that moves the idle air valve.

so it seems to supplement the control of the idle valve in some way, although im not yet sure how. The coolant lines run though passages that effect the temperature of this bi-metal spring. I am guessing that as the engine coolant warms up the bi-metal spring
expands and this mechanically moves the idle valve in the direction that closes is slightly more than it was, lowering the idle speed as it warms up.
the question is, why doesn't the computer just use the temp readings from the Coolant Temperature Sensor and adjust the idle speed accordingly??

however I'm not really sure that this is all there is to the way this system works. It's just what I guess.
maybe the general idle speed is controlled by the computer and this bi-metal spring just drops the idle a bit as the engine warms up.
This would mean a couple of things: 1. adjusting the exact position of that little plate will effect your idle speed. 2. doing the mod of this OP will cause your engine to idle too high.