Throttle Body Coolant Bypass (with pics), Want to bypass the coolant flow to your Throttle Body on you 5SFE? Options

[Spider77]

So, after quite a few PM's on how to do this I finally broke down and took some pics. You will notice however that I did not put everything back to "factory settings", ie, I just took a few pictures and hope that they'll help the ones who want to know how to do this.
First off though, a warning:
****THE COOLANT WILL BE HOT AFTER RUNNING THE ENGINE, THEREFORE TO AVOID BURNS I STRONGLY SUGGEST THAT YOU LET THE ENGINE/COOLANT SYSTEM COOL DOWN BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO THIS, I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR PERSONAL HARM THAT MAY BE CAUSED WHILE ATTEMPTING THIS, YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED****

STEPS:
1:) You want to start by disconnecting your SRI/CAI/Stock Intake at the throttle body:

2:) Disconnect the 4 Vac lines (three on top, one that sits lower):

3:) Disconnect the Throttle Cables (one for Man, two for Auto):

4:) Remove TB by pulling the 4 12 mm bolts:

5:) Remove TB from Intake Plenum:

6:) You will notice three lines hooked into the TB, two outside line (coolant) and one middle line (vac). You want to "bypass" the TB by linking the two coolant lines together, using a 5/16th brass bard (male to male) fitting and screw clamps to tighten it down. Please do not use existing hardware as its probably been sitting there for a while and chances are it wont stand up. Please use new hardware (screw clamps).




7: After you insert brass barb (male to male fitting) and tighten down the screw clamps, you might want to install some vac caps on the coolant ports. Although I cant say if its required, for me its just piece of mind):

8: Reattach the Vac line (its the middle port)!

8.5: Totally optional, but at this time I did a minor cleaning of the TB, and the butterfly valve. Not required, but while its open, might as well, right?
9: Check your work. This is what you should have, two coolant lines "looped" together, two coolant ports capped (optional), and the Vac line (the middle port) reattached. Make sure that your screw clamps are tight (either use a socket or the right size four point to make sure its super tight...don't want leaks), and again, check another time. Once you are sure everything is done, place your throttle body back on the intake plenum, place the SRI/CAI/Stock Intake back on, and enjoy!

While I can not say this is how it is for different engines, the concept is the same. So, for all those people PM'ing me, this is how you do it (again ,mind you its not a pure step by step, but you'll get the idea), and for those who want to know how to TB Bypass on the 5SFE, here you go!
I hope this can help answer this question to some extent. If anyone sees anything wrong with this (ie mislabeling please let me know so I can correct).
Thanks and hope you enjoy!

[Bitter]

Pressure drop causes the air to condense and cool to a greater degree than ambient conditions. That's why airplanes have carb heat elements to prevent icing. Given the right weather conditions the throttle could form ice which could cause it to stick or the IAC to stick. It's not going to create ice at WOT because there is less pressure differential. If it's going to ice, it would be at steady state low throttle cruise when manifold vacuum is the highest for the longest amounts of time, or when engine braking down a steep grade for a long period of time. It's more of a problem with carbs since the fuel charge is evaporating and removing more heat from the air. Pressure temperature relationships are cool. Get it?

[Langing]

Pressure drop causes the air to condense and cool to a greater degree than ambient conditions. That's why airplanes have carb heat elements to prevent icing. Given the right weather conditions the throttle could form ice which could cause it to stick or the IAC to stick. It's not going to create ice at WOT because there is less pressure differential. If it's going to ice, it would be at steady state low throttle cruise when manifold vacuum is the highest for the longest amounts of time, or when engine braking down a steep grade for a long period of time. It's more of a problem with carbs since the fuel charge is evaporating and removing more heat from the air. Pressure temperature relationships are cool. Get it?

Agree that pressure/ temperature relationships are cool. Sometimes they lead to counterintuitive realities. Thanks for stepping up to the question. What you said is making sense.

You did a slight gloss-over when you said "Given the right weather conditions the throttle could form ice." Can the throttle form ice without the presence of moisture, such as when the ambient air is extremely cold? In the deep of winter, even here in NC, the ambient air is quite dry, as any moisture has precipitated out. Homeowners frequently run humidifiers in their homes to keep some moisture in their inside air, to make themselves more comfortable, or to eliminate static electricity.

If I understand you, ice formation in the manner you describe (pressure drop), the weather conditions would be in the neighborhood of 'near freezing' rather than deep freeze conditions. For ice to form in the TB, there must be moisture (water) in the intake air. In a deep freeze situation there is no moisture, so no ice can form. Or is my understanding incorrect on this point?