Throttle Body Coolant Bypass (with pics), Want to bypass the coolant flow to your Throttle Body on you 5SFE? Options

[Spider77]

So, after quite a few PM's on how to do this I finally broke down and took some pics. You will notice however that I did not put everything back to "factory settings", ie, I just took a few pictures and hope that they'll help the ones who want to know how to do this.
First off though, a warning:
****THE COOLANT WILL BE HOT AFTER RUNNING THE ENGINE, THEREFORE TO AVOID BURNS I STRONGLY SUGGEST THAT YOU LET THE ENGINE/COOLANT SYSTEM COOL DOWN BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO THIS, I AM IN NO WAY RESPONSIBLE FOR PERSONAL HARM THAT MAY BE CAUSED WHILE ATTEMPTING THIS, YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED****

STEPS:
1:) You want to start by disconnecting your SRI/CAI/Stock Intake at the throttle body:

2:) Disconnect the 4 Vac lines (three on top, one that sits lower):

3:) Disconnect the Throttle Cables (one for Man, two for Auto):

4:) Remove TB by pulling the 4 12 mm bolts:

5:) Remove TB from Intake Plenum:

6:) You will notice three lines hooked into the TB, two outside line (coolant) and one middle line (vac). You want to "bypass" the TB by linking the two coolant lines together, using a 5/16th brass bard (male to male) fitting and screw clamps to tighten it down. Please do not use existing hardware as its probably been sitting there for a while and chances are it wont stand up. Please use new hardware (screw clamps).




7: After you insert brass barb (male to male fitting) and tighten down the screw clamps, you might want to install some vac caps on the coolant ports. Although I cant say if its required, for me its just piece of mind):

8: Reattach the Vac line (its the middle port)!

8.5: Totally optional, but at this time I did a minor cleaning of the TB, and the butterfly valve. Not required, but while its open, might as well, right?
9: Check your work. This is what you should have, two coolant lines "looped" together, two coolant ports capped (optional), and the Vac line (the middle port) reattached. Make sure that your screw clamps are tight (either use a socket or the right size four point to make sure its super tight...don't want leaks), and again, check another time. Once you are sure everything is done, place your throttle body back on the intake plenum, place the SRI/CAI/Stock Intake back on, and enjoy!

While I can not say this is how it is for different engines, the concept is the same. So, for all those people PM'ing me, this is how you do it (again ,mind you its not a pure step by step, but you'll get the idea), and for those who want to know how to TB Bypass on the 5SFE, here you go!
I hope this can help answer this question to some extent. If anyone sees anything wrong with this (ie mislabeling please let me know so I can correct).
Thanks and hope you enjoy!

[Bitter]

Low temperature but high humidity. Say when it's foggy and just around freezing, like when you have snow on the ground but a warm front with moist air pushes through, all that humidity turns to a thick fog bank but it's still in the high 30's maybe low 40's. That's when throttle icing is likely to happen. Also at higher altitudes as well where you can have cooler air with higher humidity. You can use the same charts pilots use.

[Langing]

Low temperature but high humidity. Say when it's foggy and just around freezing, like when you have snow on the ground but a warm front with moist air pushes through, all that humidity turns to a thick fog bank but it's still in the high 30's maybe low 40's. That's when throttle icing is likely to happen. Also at higher altitudes as well where you can have cooler air with higher humidity. You can use the same charts pilots use.

Bitter and Smaay. . . thank you for helping me to understand. I was gone all day today but was very happy when I returned to find that Bitter had cleanly defined the conditions under which throttle icing can occur, conditions that make sense to me as the only way it COULD POSSIBLY happen, given the laws of physics, and Smaay followed up with a rationale from Toyota's point of view. Since becoming a member it's been easy to see that the both of you are quite expert and skilled (relative to many others) in auto mechanics/engineering, whereas I am just learning, and normally I accept what you say without question. This time I needed more pinpointed attention to my questions than you offered until I challenged the fuzzyness of your answers. Now I fully believe that my Celica's throttle may very well freeze up under those precise conditions, so I should always be self-aware and ready, prepared with memorized actions to take to avoid a potential disaster should it ever happen to me.

Let me remind you of the patent I referred to earlier as a way to help those people on the fence about shunting their TB coolant flow. By letting engine coolant flow through the TB at start up, then when the engine is warmed up, shutting it down, the patent holders claimed that they were able to shorten engine warm up time from 250 seconds to 178 seconds -- the main object of their patent was to speed up the process of engine warm up -- and they cut out approximately 30% of the engine warm up time. They considered that a very positive advance in automobile technology. With Celicas that do have coolant flowing in the TBs, you realize the same speedup in engine warm up time. Defaulting that coolant flow not only subjects you to the possibility of finding yourself in a bad situation due to throttle freezing (most likely prior to reaching normal engine temperatures), BUT you also loose the advantage of a faster warm up.This all suggests that we should NOT do what this thread was begun to show how to do. For me, it is a null issue because there is no coolant flowing in my TB (94 Celica ST).

This post has been edited by Langing: Sep 13, 2014 - 9:53 PM