Whats the most psi someone has ran on a stock 7afe motor?, Whats the most psi someone has ran on a stock 7afe motor? Options

[rapid36]

Hi guys im thinking about going turbo, i have a stock 7afe motor, im currently running a 3 row all aluminum radiator and a big transmission oil cooler with an electric fan on it. I have a brand new torque converter inside the transmission. I got about 140k on the motor and tranny. i also have 440cc injectors (not installed), got a cheap aem piggy back (not installed). i will go have it dyno'd and tuned by a shop if i do get a turbo setup but im curious what 7afe stock motors can handle (my guess is not very much). i dont want to kill the motor just want to bump up the hp and tq as much as i can without going forged.

[Box]

Just depends on the engine, internal components strength and compression etc... Most engines stock are good for around 6, some can do 10-12. Just depends.

[rapid36]

Just depends on the engine, internal components strength and compression etc... Most engines stock are good for around 6, some can do 10-12. Just depends.

I see thank you :-). im pretty scared of running up boost lol. I think if i have a good tune i will do no more than 14 psi. even that is pushing it. Its going to cost me $400 to get it tuned, i dont know if they dyno it while tuning i think they do, then again i never had it done so i dont know. i will start with the standard 7 psi then work my way up but wont exceed 14psi. Seems like a manual tranny wont take 14 psi without getting a stronger clutch, im running an auto :-(, i wonder how much it will take before slipping and such. hopefully 14 psi wont be too much for it, although i really doubt it lol.

This post has been edited by rapid36: Feb 24, 2015 - 11:10 AM

[Noahwhite2014]

If you want faster accelleration you can always go with a smaller torque converter so the stall speed will be higher and will be closer to peak torque (it'll make it feel ALOT faster when you start getting pulled at 4400 rpm lol) also it will help to make the car to idle smoother since there won't be much of a load at idle or even when your foot is just on the brake and you're in drive. There's no real mechanical connection until the "clutch" engages when the rotations match each other to stop slipping. Not too sure if anything AFTER the the torque converter might break though. Anyone know the strength of the auto st drive shafts? Lol

Also I put clutch because it has a clutch like function And is operated by fluid pressure, but I can't remember what that part is called...


This post has been edited by Noahwhite2014: Feb 24, 2015 - 4:45 PM