Assembling a 3rd Gen 3S-GTE Engine Options

[Smaay]

Lets start with the block, freshly painted and honed







Here are all the main components of the engine. This is after I removed them from the engine.



Here are the old piston rings. Take one of them and break it. Then use it as a scraper to clean out the ringlands.







Here is the bottom side of the block. You can see the holes where the oil squirters go.



Squirters and bearings installed.





Crankshaft laid in the block





Main caps installed, you can see the markers on the caps indicating order and direction.







Back to the pistons, here they are after cleaning them with a scotch brite pad. You don’t want to use anything more abrasive.





This is the top of the piston. The little circle on the right indicates forward to the front of the engine. The 3C is the size of the piston.



This tab indicates forward, this is if you ever take the rod off the piston so you know which way it goes.





Piston with new rings installed.





Im sorry I didn’t get pictures of using the ring compressor and installing them in the block. Here is the rod cap with new bearing and lube.



This shows how the rod cap is aligned on the rod.





All the rotating assembly done.



Here is the front of the engine.



Other than worn rod bearings, the internals were in fairly good shape, so I rebuilt the oil pump instead of replacing it. Much cheaper. You need to open the pump and replace this gasket.



This is the pump shaft seal. It’s really easy to replace.





This is the back of the pump. It’s a pain in the ass cleaning off the old gasket. I considered a bead of FIPG instead of a new gasket, but since I had one, I used it.



Front main seal, this gets pressed into the oil pump before installation, its easier trust me.





Installed new water pump. It comes with new gaskets.



This is the rear main seal. It’s the same as the 5S-FE



Rear main seal pressed into the housing and then installed on the back of the block





These 2 o-rings can be purchased at any auto parts store. They come in a kit of multi sized. These are #116. They were about $1.30 each.



Block ready to install the oil pickup and windage tray.







This is oil pan #1, FIPG applied around the boarder.



Oil pans installed and oil filter.





These are new o-rings for the base of the oil cooler.





This is the o-ring that goes between the oil cooler and the base.



Oil cooler installed.





New Thermostat.



New head gasket.



This is the part number for the ARP head studs.



Top of the block ready for the head to be installed.



Head gasket laid on the deck.



Head set on the deck. There are several ways to do this but this is how I do it. The head will not allow you to drop in the head stud washers with the studs in place. So what I do is stage the head. Then lube up the washers with ARP lube. Then drop them into position.









Then what I do is lube up the nuts and threads on the mating threads of the stud.







Sorry I didn’t get a pic but the top of the studs have an allen key hole. Thread the stud through the head into the block finger tight. Then go through the torque procedures. Starting from the middle out in several steps. I started at 40lbs, then 70lbs.

Next is the shims and buckets. I numbered all of them so I know where to put them back.







Lube up for cam install.



Again I missed a picture but the caps are all numbered and have an arrow pointing to the front like the main caps.





Installed the hard water lines, you can see the new HFH (hose from hell)





Mount the back timing cover. I really don’t like the 3rd gen setup. The top section mounts to the valve cover.





Install the cam gears.



New timing belt tensioner and idler bearings.





New timing belt installed.







This thingy that helps keep the belt from walking out.



Lower cover installed and crank pulley.



Verify notch on pulley at TDC. Turn the crankshaft 2 times and ensure the timing marks on the cam gears are still aligned.





All Done.