Battery relocation, How too Options

[a2daj1]

ok a few things you need

Drill
screwdriver
a good blade
time
a basic set of sockets and ratchet
I also recommend wearing gloves for some parts of this job .
Also
#1 I recommend getting at least 25 ft. of zero gauge wire do your research and decide what wire is best for you!

#2 A battery box which can be bought at auto zone for around 11 or you can find them on ebay
#3 2x battery post terminals
#4 2 copper lugs (they come in 2 packs)
#5 piece of heat shrink that will fit the 0 gauge wire

1st step unhook your battery

2nd step is remove your wheel drivers front

3rd step remove your fender liner you should see an airbag loom and a black loom running through there.

4th step remove the door sill, rear seats, and drivers side kick panel
I also found it much easier to remove the drivers seat. Removing the rear side seat plastic may or may not be necessary. My car is a coupe so a few things are a little different.

Now near where your air box enters the frame rail and runs down to the front bumper there is a plug. This is where you will want to start running your wire. Make sure you leave enough in the bay to work with.


Now start running the wire around the top were the air back an large black loom run i used zip ties to hold it to those.





Once you get to the door side of the fender you will see 2 body plugs with in one there is the airbag loom and the other the large black loom i used the airbag loom plug to run mine. Cut the smallest hole possible to run your zero gauge wire through. Yes you will have to run the whole 25 ft of wire through it so be careful.




After you get it through the body plug start feeding it into the body. You will see it comes out behind the fuse panel near where your left foot usually rests. bring it all the way through and pop your body plug back in.



Most of the rest is tucking the wire away neatly under the carpet. In my picture you will see i ran it through where your trunk and fuel door handles are. DONT do that lol unless you don't want to be able to put your plastic piece back on. go over that hump lol.



Here are some more pictures of the almost finished product. I was advised to install a breaker which i plan to do. when i do i will post pics of that as well.











Ill have more pictures to upload of this project tomorrow. Although all that is left is running the wire back to where you install your battery box to the new terminal you have purchased for the positive side. Then run your ground terminal to a either pre existing bolt or make yourself a new hole and bolt it up!

This post has been edited by a2daj1: Feb 29, 2016 - 6:43 PM

[Jmk91]

Make sure you use sealant in that body plug. Once cut water actually gets inside there and gets inside and makes driver side floor wet. I ran my amp wire thru there and my floor kept getting wet.. So I resealed the plug and I never had an issue since. I didn't cut the plug to bad either just a small cut to squeeze 0 gauge wire. I used silicone sealant it's water proof. I'd also recommend using 100% copper vs cca. The 20$ for 25 foot is definitely cca. Cca doesn't carry current as well as copper. I think it's 67% efficient as copper I could be off by a few % but not to much. Cca also corrodes rather quickly. Best wiring in my opinion is NVX its silver tinned copper. Silver is the best current producer it's 6% better than copper. I used NVX with my amp wiring kit but if I where to relocate my battery I would definitely use it or at least pure copper.

This post has been edited by Jmk91: Feb 27, 2016 - 9:55 PM