88 Alltrac Options

[mkernz22]

Figure I would start this here instead of post more crap in my thread.

As some of you know, I picked up an ST165 Alltrac yesterday.
Yes, I got it for an absolute steal because the guy thought it was seized.
His story: I was pulling into my apartment complex, the engine shut off, and the wheels locked up.
I thought: Okay, doesn't really sound like it seized up...
So I get the car back to my house start charging the battery for a bit and just try cranking it. It turned over slightly because of the dead battery. Kept charging it and about 3 hours later, and after 1 slight catch and die, it starts up just fine. No knocking, no squealing except for the alt belt, sounded amazing, but it kept stalling out. So I gave it gas and held it at 1k rpm's and it would hold there fine on it's own. If I revved it up it would come down, drop below 1k to about 500 and would stall. I figured it had to be vac related cause it was getting everything else.
He told me he had replaced this "coolant" hose on the back side of the engine because it was leaking. The piece he replaced it with was way too long and had 2 kinks in it. Not really that great flowing for coolant. I looked at it more to see where it went, and well I'll be damned, it went to the IAC. No****ingwonder why the car kept stalling out. It wasn't receiving the correct vac at low rpm's. :facepalm: x1,000,000. and this kid is going to New England tech too. So help me god I hope he gets some common sense and learns more.

Now for a list of the mods done to it.
From the PO before this guy:
-Rear poly bushings on all the control arms, don't think he touched the subframe or rear diff, but will check on that
-MR2 rear struts / cut front springs (oh well)
-ST185 front calipers
-CT26 was sent out to a shop and trimmed. Talked to the guy and he said it might be a 60 trim now.
-Exhaust / Water / Oil temp gauges
-Boost gauge (stock still works too)
-HKS Electronic Boost Controller
-Blitz Turbo Timer
-St205 transmission and rear differential. Both are confirmed now.
-gForce ECU chip - semi confirmed, still have to open and check.
-Stupid f*cking hood pins. They're the flushish locking ones. Just need to buy new ones since I don't have the key or get a new hood.
-3" Downpipe to 3" straight exhaust to a Megan Racing muffler.
-JDM block / US head / EGR delete
-ST162 Cams

From the guy I bought it off of:
-Rebuilt bottom end; new pistons, rings, bearings, 1.6 or 1.8mm metal head gasket, ARP headstuds

Photos:








^My cluster**** of a wiring mess I need to clean up and redo. Definitely need some plugs in there...



This post has been edited by mkernz22: Nov 18, 2014 - 11:22 AM

[mkernz22]

Haven't really done much in the past month because of school, buuuutt, the semester is almost over so summer will see a lot of progress

I do have a mr2 alternator bracket and crank pulley on the way, and soon to have a 3sge valve cover as it looks a little bit better than the current one.
But if you're going to ask why relocate the alternator to the back of the engine, here are my reasons:
-It'll be easier to install my oil filter relocation kit as I won't have a bracket and belt in the way
-It won't be near the DP and header so it'll be a bit cooler
-Most importantly, the gen1 heads are known for cracking around the alternator bracket mounts so I won't have to worry about the head cracking.

Also, I'll either be going with an MR2 electric PS pump or just no power steering.