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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Nov 15, '03 From mississippi Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
Ok guys I am saving for my swap but I have no I dea what I need. Can you guys that have the swap done give me a list of things needed also if there are any info websites??? From reading posts from the past I have an idea of how much money I need but I dont know what I need to complete otr where to get such items.
Also one question about the ECU, is the stock ECU needed or is there an aftermarket one??? Thanks for help, William This post has been edited by celimanST: Aug 15, 2004 - 5:09 PM |
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![]() Administrator ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 23, '02 From Seattle, WA Currently Offline Reputation: 14 (100%) ![]() |
OK. You need the motor, manifolds, AE101 flywheel, ECU, harness(you'll need at least a few plugs off of it...the majority of mine wasn't used for my swap.), ignitor, AFM, some sort of an external coil(the AE101 one would work fine, but I used a MSD Blaster coil.), a longer throttle accelerator cable(I used one out of a Paseo.), and an external power steering reservoir if you plan on keeping power steering. There's other stuff that I'll think of later I'm sure...I'll post again when I remember. ![]() It'd be smart to use the tranny that's mated to the AE101 4A-GE, whether it's a C-52 or a C-56. It has closer gear ratios that work better with the high-revving 4A-GE. It's also smart to change your clutch when doing a swap...I'm not sure if the clutch on your car now is compatible with the AE101 212mm flywheel as well. And no, you can't use your stock flywheel. The 7A-FE's flywheel is held on with six bolts, while the 4A-GE uses eight. Don't forget to get the AE101 flywheel machined...I did this today and it costed me $40. As far as stuff to replace on the engine, it'd be smart to replace your water pump, timing belt, idler pulley, front and rear main seals, plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, and flywheel bolts. The silvertop engine that you get has most likely been sitting for years, and it's smart to replace this stuff while the engine is out of the car before it breaks on you once it's running. ![]() You can use an aftermarket ECU, but it will cost more, and I'd imagine that it'd be a bit more work to use an aftermarket ECU. If you plan to go standalone, though, it's best to do it from the start. Some helpful links are below. http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/phil.bradshaw/Index.htm http://www.padandwheels.com/mr2/ http://www.padandwheels.com/mr2/blacktoppr...engharness.html (included because although it's part of the above site, it's buried in some obscure location) http://dr_hess.tripod.com/The_Beast.htm http://www.supras.nl/view.php?page=modsAW11-4AGE20valve.htm http://www.geocities.com/bale92002/20vconversion.html http://www.club4ag.com/faq%20and%20tech_pa...oject%2020V.htm http://www.turbocorolla.com/tech/ -------------------- New Toyota project coming soon...
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