OH MY GOD!, Argh! I hate my mechanic! Options

[Coomer]

So on Sunday I drove my car to my mechanic's shop so that I could do my clutch install myself in his garage using his tools, since I no longer have any tools because they got stolen. This was the same mechanic who did my swap, but I had no intention of having him touch the car. Well it turns out that I'm 100% completely mechanically retarded...at the end of the day I didn't even have both axles out of the car.

And since it was in the shop's main bay and my mechanic had to have it out of there and I had to work, I couldn't continue on it and had to pay him to do my clutch installation. So I got my car back today and took it for a drive...it is now so screwed up it's ridiculous. Now I have to hold the wheel ten degrees or so clockwise to drive straight!

I also have a new paint chip on the side of my door from my mechanic hitting the door with something, and my front brakes squeal when I come to a stop. It's so ridiculously sick how retarded my mechanic is. My car was fine except for a bad throwout bearing due to my mechanic being a retard and using the wrong one on my tranny. Now it doesn't drive straight and my brakes squeal.

I just don't even know what to do anymore...my car used to be nice...now look at it...it's a piece of garbage...I don't even think I could sell this car anymore.

[Coomer]

Well, basically, the VVT solenoid has two wires going to it...one is +12 volts that gets +12 volts when the ignition is on. When ground is sent through the other wire by the ECU, the VVT solenoid switches over and turns on VVT. So I tapped into the switch wire for the VVT solenoid, and ran the spliced wire to one side of a pushbutton switch, and the other side to ground. I started up the car, and pushed the switch, which caused the idle to be very poor, but it stopped the clicking noise which I previously suspected(thanks to Sphinx ) was the VVT pulley.

I let off the switch and started driving, and while at WOT I pressed the switch a couple times, but didn't notice any increases in performance or changes in sound. However, the car seemed much quicker, without me even touching the switch. I initially thought it was due to the colder air(this was at 2AM or so) and the OEM flywheel, since this was the night that I'd broken in the clutch and was able to drive it hard. However, the VVT thing had me confused, so it occurred to me that maybe VVT was working now.

So I hooked up a VVT light(shown below in the vent), and found that VVT was working flawlessly! Apparently when the ECU recieved ground manually by me manually grounding the wire that splices into it, it set something off...maybe the ECU was stuck or something from sitting for too long. That's the only possible thing that I can think of, but I'm happy because VVT is working perfectly, and the car feels a whole lot faster than it did before, especially in the lower RPM range.

And Super, the VVT engages mostly based on throttle position signal. The car has to be warmed up for it to engage(except when the car is starting...VVT is on when the car is starting to get more air into the engine to make starting easier...this is why in the photo below, the VVT light is on...the car is off, and the VVT wire will give ground until the car is running), and VVT engages anywhere from around 1900 RPM up to around 7000 RPM if your foot is on the throttle fairly hard. Above 7000 RPM or so, it becomes inefficient to have VVT on, so it will shut off.

Anyway, I'm just so happy that it works...the car feels sooooo much faster than before, and VVT sounds great when it comes on, although my loud exhaust drowns out the noise from the intake and individual throttle bodies. Anyway, here's the VVT light.

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