CAI GT how to., 20 to 30 bucks Options

[urbandork]

I did submit this to the how to article section, however because of several ppl asking me for the how to directly i have decided to put it up as a thread and when ever it gets reviewed as a "how to" it gets reviewed.

"Usual disclamer"

GT CAI How To (this also works for the ST celica as well)

Tools and parts:
Metric socket/ratchet set
Screw driver
Hack saw
Dremel
¾ inch hole saw
Permanent marker
90-93 Honda accord CAI system (2 piece 2¾ in. pipe)

The Concept Design:



Step 1: Prep
Take out the stock air-box. This is done by disconnecting it from the throttle body, Unbolting the air box as well as taking out the resignation from the front fender (note; this is where the air filter will go). When taking out the air-box you will have to disconnect a breather tube as well as a temperature sensor. The temp. sensor can simply be puledl/wiggled free from the rubber flange that holds it on. After pulling the temp sensor out remove and save the rubber flange.




Step 2: More prep
Next thing on the list is to take out or rather detach the fuse box from the car. To do this there are three bolts. Two are under the cover, one is in the back and one is on the side. The third bolt holding the fuse box down is in the front and at the bottom. At this point take note of the bottom of the fuse box as it will be attacked by the friendly dremel.


Step 3: Modify “S” pipe
Now with the engine bay free of the stock air-box its time take a look at how the piping from a 90-93 accord CAI system will be used to route a CAI system for our GT’s. There are two pieces of pipe in the accords CAI package. The first piece has an “S” type shape as well as a small pipe for a breather tube. The second piece is shaped more like an “L” and this is the pipe that will be routed through the fender where the filter element will be mounted.






Test mount the S pipe to the throttle body using the supplied couplers. Next take the L pipe and stick the short end down and into the hole that’s in the fender. If you care about scraping the finish make sure you’re careful when navigating the pipe around the fuse box and into the hole as well as placing cloth anywhere needed.

With both pipe soft mounted you will see that the second bend from the throttle body routes the pipe on a tighter angled vector then is needed to mount up to the L pipe properly. Luckily the L pipes length is just perfect and it reaches all the way out to the second bend on the S pipe and ends just exactly where the cut in the second bend needs to be made. Use the permanent marker to mark off where the cut on the second bend of the S pipe needs to be made and take Mr. Hacksaw to it. Clean off the edge as well as any stray derby and or saw dust.








Step 4: Modify “L” pipe
At this point the only piece of pipe that should be cut is the second bend on the S pipe. The L pipe should be untouched, but not for long. After cutting the second bend on the S pipe a coupler should be able to link the S pipe to the L pipe, which should be routed through the hole and down into the front fender area.

With the front left-hand splash guard off the filter element should be able to be mounted on to the shorter end of the L pipe that’s sticking through the hole. You might note that there is more pipe then needed sticking though the hole. Test mount the filter element to see how much of the pipe needs to be taken off. If the pipe is too far into the filter element it probably will lead to airflow restrictions but it will be louder because of this.


If your planing on fitting a bypass valve as i have done a section of pipe is going to have to cut to allow the fittment of the bpv. It is best to make the cut on the L pipe rather then the s pipe.





Step 5: Temperature sensor
With the S pipe soft mounted to the L pipe, now would be a good time to figure out where you want to drill the hole that will mount the temp sensor. Chose a place and make sure that the sensor will reach it. Then use a ¾ inch hole saw to make a hole in the pipe. The hole should be the same size as that on the air box which held the rubber flange for the temp sensor. Slip the flange onto the hole and test fit the temp sensor.





Step 6: Fuse box modification
Now with the pipes cut and mounted you should be able to try to mount the fuse box back in its original location. When doing this you should be able to see what and how much of the fuse box needs to be taken off.

The bottom of the fuse box can be taken off, this exposes the plug. All that needs to be shaved off is some of the sides and bottom of the fuse box as well as some of the plug. This step is best done with a steady hand and a dremel with a “cut off” blade. A slow yet steady approach is a good idea.

If you don’t want to bust out the dremel then the fuse box can be left alone and either secured by zip ties or longer bolts can be used to hold the box in to place via stock mounting points.





Step 7: All done
Now that the pipes are cut, the hole for the temp sensor is made, and the fuse box is modified the pipes should be able to be mounted using the couplers and air filter that it came with. After getting everything back together start the car and enjoy the sound of cold air intake.









Here are a few other member's setups as well













(another method)



(the INJEN SRI)






Notes:
EBay has the cheapest 90-93 accord CAI systems, but make sure it is the two piece type like the one on Pro Car Parts.

Some 90-93 accord CAI piping have two breather tubes rather then just one. From my experience with Pro Car Parts and EBay, the chrome set has two where as the powder coated one only has one.

the use of a bypass valve. It is not needed to work properly however it is something you can ad on to protect against hydrolock. Keep in mind that inorder for hydro lock to take place almost the whole filter element needs to be submergered in to water. This would have to be avery deep puddle. I drove around with no bypass for a long while with no troble. I put it on when it started to rain heavily and because a shop i was checking out had one in stock.

WARNING Must use 2.5 inch pipe if not moding the hole below the fuse box. If you use 2.75" pipe the sides of the hole will rub a cut into the pipe.

If you use 2.75" cut the hole larger.

This post has been edited by presure2: Jan 22, 2009 - 9:34 AM

Reason for edit: added pics to 6gc photobucket

[LewFX]

okay so which version is better!!! and redline, where did you move the black box? can anyone help me modify my short ram injen to make it go cold air??

[urbandork]

okay so which version is better!!! and redline, where did you move the black box? can anyone help me modify my short ram injen to make it go cold air??
[right][snapback]249585[/snapback][/right]

that black box is the stock airbox so it needs no relocation rather it just needs to be taken out. However if you were talking about the one to the left of the bat. that would be the cruise contorl i think. Where he relocated that or if he retained it im unsure. If memory servs i think he was able to relocate.

Take a pic of ur injen one and ill let you know about making it a cai. im sure it can be done.

As to which ones better, with out sounding like a big head id have to say the fender route is. for the following reasons.

The stock airbox actually intakes air from the place the filter element in my set up does. If you look at the front of ur bumper (model with no fogs) you will see that on the drivers side there is a small scoop that actually flows air in to the fender area. Putting the filter element here ensures true cold air. This is because it is separated from the engine bay, the only thing going into this area is fresh outside air. Another great thing about having the filter elment here is that its closer to the outside and thus more aduioable/louder.

In comparision the way redline has his set up the piping, puts the filter element near the exhaust manifold where it is pron to still injest hot air. furter more the filter element is still in the engine bay area. This causes it to get heat soaked and also means that it is not constantly fed cold air. Inorder to solve this probly an air scope can be made however even with and airscoop it probably isnt to effective at cold air injestion.

I beleive redline was one of the ppl i asked questions about CAI when i looked into it. Or at least i remember looking at his set up via pix from the members page. I decided not to go with this set up for the above reasons but also because of its location next to the exhaust manifold and the number of bends. The least bends ensures the smoothes flow of air possible.

This post has been edited by urbandork: Feb 24, 2005 - 2:47 AM