my 5SFTE turbo project, 300+whp PG 23!!!!!!! Options

[presure2]

hey guys, since i've been fielding alot of questions about turboing the 5s, and most of the links in the 5sfte sticky are dead, i figured i start a thread about the buildup of my kit, and try to include as many details as possible, so everyone can learn a little more about what exactly goes into a setup like this. ill keep updating the threads and adding pics and stuff as i upload more ect..
im not gonna get into the whole why not swap a 3s instead debate here, thats a dead issue as far as im concerned. (not that i think swapping is a bad idea, just not for me.)
so, ill start off by saying the single most important thing you can do if you wanna turbo your 5s is RESEARCH! take your time, learn about the diffrent systems that all work together to make a good kit work. go to www.howstuffworks.com and find out how EVERYTHING works, it'll make understanding the hows and whys of everything so much easier. i've been reserching about this for 2+yrs and i STILL learn new things everyday.
#2 is DONT BE CHEAP...can you do it cheap? yea..will it last? prolly not.
thats gotta be the SINGLE biggest mistake i see EVERYONE make. cheap out on all the little stuff, and it WILL come back to haunt you in the end
that said, i decided i wanted to turbo my 5s. lol
so, off on the hunt i went...parts lists, install sites, the burien kit...i searched it ALLLLLL...for MONTHS!! talking to people, looking at sites, printing info..basicly what the old timers call "goin to the woodshed"
then, i started looking for parts:
3s exhaust manifold, ct-26 turbo, oil hard lines, elbow and primary cat (also known as a downpipe), if your not planning on getting a aftermarket downpipe. also the oil pan and 2bar map sensor.
your gonna want these off of a 2nd gen 3sgte from a 90-93 alltrac or mr2T, and are pretty easy finds over on www.alltrac.net and or www.mr2oc.com. if your not a member of these 2 sites, YOU SHOULD BE!!! theres a wealth of info on these to sites, and while alot of it may not be 5sfte spacific, its still VERY good info, especially the 90-99 mr2/ 3sgte forum.
next was injectors. there is ALOT of confusion here, where to find them, what they look like, what size are they really ect.
what we're looking for is the MKIII N/A supra injectors. not turbo injectors, not alltrac injectors, N/A MKIII supra. theyre a lime green color, and 315cc. just to clear up another point of confusion, they do NOT become bigger injectors in our cars. the fuel pressure between the n/a supra and the 5s is the SAME.
there is a pic in the 5sfte sticky of what they look like and the flow tests to show it.
i found mine on ebay, but you can sometimes find them on some of the boards ive mentioned, and the supraforums.
also, i really reccomend having the injectors cleaned and balanced once you get them, if you look closley at the printout for my injectors in the sticky from when i had them cleaned and balanced, youll see why i say this.
one of my injectors wasnt even spraying, it was DRIPPING before it was cleaned. i'd HATE to see what would happen if i'd installed that thing in there and cranked up the boost!
so yea, i really cant stress enough, HAVE YOUR INJECTORS CLEANED BEFORE YOU INSTALL THEM!!! www.rceng.com did an excelent job on mine for about 100$, and ive heard thru the mr2 board that www.witchhunter.com also does a very good job, and are only 12$ per injector.

EDIT!!! 315CC injectors are TOO SMALL for use in a turbo 5sfe. 460cc rx7 injectors are a drop in replacement and are discribed later in this post!!!


you'll also need to upgrade your fuel pump, use the 255lph walboro supra pump. you can get it for under 100 usually on ebay., and pretty much bolts in.
next for me was the intercooler..now contrary to popular belief, bigger IS NOT always better when it comes to intercoolers.
you wanna choose the smallest intercooler to fit your needs, with a LITTLE room for growth. for instance, in my case, my goal is around 190-200whp for now, so i chose a intercooler thats 26x6x3 overall length, with endtanks. its good for up to 300hp. why not somthing bigger? well, the #1 reason is theres no NEED for anything bigger. lol the bigger you go, the more pressure drop you have, and thats not what we want. with all the piping invloved for a 5sfte FMIC, the last then we want is some big honking core, sucking up 2-3 or more psi of the boost we wanna get to our engines.
for the piping, again, bigger is NOT always better. 2" or 2.25 " is more than sufficent for us. you'll need to buy pre-bent lengths and cut and fit them for your particular setup. jcwhitney is cheap for aluminized steel, or burns stainless if you want stainless pipes.
then the noise maker of the bunch , the BOV...your choice here, i chose the HKS SSQV... got it from ebay for 190+ shipping i think it was..just make sure your buying the real thing if its from ebay, theres alot of shady copys floating around. youll also need a mounting flange to have welded to your intercooler piping, make sure you get the correct size and material to match your piping.
TOO BE CONTINUED...

This post has been edited by presure2: Nov 11, 2007 - 10:53 AM

[presure2]

ok i wanna talk a little here about oil lines.
there are a TON of questions about what to do for the oil feed and return lines, so here are a few ideas for you to think about.
now, to get oil to feed your turbo, the quickest and easiest way for us is to use some type of adapter to tap into the head where your stock oil pressure switch is.
now some people will say to just use a cheap brass T off the head...IMO this is a VERY, VERY bad idea. its just a recipie for disaster, and heres why:
that cheap brass T is made of BRASS, a very soft metal. when you screw that into the head, and hand your heavy stock sensor off the other end, and have your feed line coming out of it, it puts alot of stress on that fitting. with all the engine vibration going on, its just a matter of time before it cracks. and that will NOT be cool if your driving down the road when it happens..lol
the better solution is to use this peice:

you can get it here:
click me
it made of steel for much better strength, and has the right thread pitch for our head, and senders. they make 2 versions. one with 2 holes, and one with 3. if you wanna use a aftermarket oil pressure gauge you'll need the one with 3 ( its called the dual, cause they dont count the hole for your stock sender.
its about 20$ plus shipping, well worth it IMO
now the next thing is the oil feed line, and what to use for it.
the line for the oil feed should be no larger than -3an (3/16") alot of people have used re-enforced rubber hose for this, but IMO its one of those things where it just makes sense to spend the money to do it right to avoid problems later on.
www.atpturbo.com will custom make you a pre assembled -3an line with whatever ends you need, (1 straight, 1 90 degree)you want it to be ~16-18" long, tops. for ~ 40$ shipped. it looks like this:

then you just buy 2 STEEL -3an to 1/8"npt fittings, they looks like this:

you can get them from www.summitracing.com for under 3$ ea +shipping. the PT # is EAR961603ERL
use one for the head fitting i talked about earlier, and take the other fitting, and the stock oil line to you local machine shop, and have them cut the banjo bolt off the stock line, and weld the fitting onto it. heres a few pics of what i am talking about.
what it looks like with the fitting welded onto it:

with the feed line attached:

complete setup with adapter fitting for the head and autometer oil pressure gauge sender attached:

with that setup, you can pretty much forget about it, once its been run and know theres no leaks.
for the return, IMO the best setup is the stock 3s setup, meaning the 3s oil pan (yes it bolts right up) with the stock 3s rubber elbow between that and the stock return line. the rubber elbow is like 38$ from toyota, but again, its not one of those things where you wanna cheap out. its worked on the 3s for 10+ yrs, it'll work for us as well. more to come!

This post has been edited by presure2: Feb 15, 2009 - 8:26 AM

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[urbandork]

the better solution is to use this peice:

you can get it here:
click me
it made of steel for much better strength, and has the right thread pitch for our head, and senders. they make 2 versions. one with 2 holes, and one with 3.  if you wanna use a aftermarket oil pressure gauge you'll need the one with 3 ( its called the dual, cause they dont count the hole for your stock sender.
its about 20$ plus shipping, well worth it IMO

[right][snapback]269514[/snapback][/right]

i have ordered this peice a few weeks back after stumbling on to the site. Good customer service and fast shipping. The fitting came neatly packaged, it also came with one npt plug (i got the dual) and it also look nice. Looking foward to putting it on in a few months.

btw pressure whats the lenght of the hose for the feed line.

This post has been edited by urbandork: Apr 12, 2005 - 11:56 AM