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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Sep 12, '03 From Portland , Oregon , United States Currently Offline Reputation: -1 (33%) ![]() |
![]() ![]() Pioneer DEH-P560MP I got it cheap it sucks compared to my 7700 I had, but it works till the indash get here! Power Acoustik LT960/4 bridged at 250rms running a 10W6 v2-4 hits decent the LT980/2 I ordered is on back order for about another 2 weeks but once it gets here she'll come alive. Thinking of going 2 10w6's or something along the lines of that, suggestions? DTE -------------------- I am a thief.
do not buy anything from me. |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Oct 1, '02 From Minnesota, USA Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
For an upgrade I'd hide all that wiring that's just clustered everywhere...maybe loom it or at least zip tie the stuff together? Maybe you're waiting to do that until you get the new amp in, which is another question. Why match such a nice sounding sub with a mediocre amp? I'm not being mean at all, just constructive criticism at its best and trying to help out. You should look into waiting a couple months to save for a JL amp instead of just settling for the Power Acoustic.
Also, maybe consider cancelling the order for the LT980/2 and honestly saving for a nice JL amp...because that 4 channel will actually be very nice for that sub. You bridge it down as you have it now which is "250Wx2 RMS @ 4 Ohms" Which is really great for you...what you do now is run each voice coil on each separate bridged channel. Now you are running the sub in "stereo" in theory, yet it's not because as long as the RCAs are coming from the Subwoofer pre-out, the two channels get mixed to a mono anyways so there is no true left and right. Plus your amp won't be too bad as it will see total 6 Ohm load on each channel. If you run each voice coil in parallel on only one channel, not only is the sub being underpowered but it is also making that bridged channel see a 3 Ohm load which is bad on Power Acoustic amps as they don't like anything below 4 Ohm or they freak out. The only other way is running both voice coils in series on one channel yet this makes no sense because the one channel will see a 12 Ohm load. Sorry to go into so much detail with this, but I don't want you to mess that Sub up by wiring it wrong, because wiring it in the not optimal way on a mediocre amp can do some damage to either the sub or the amp. Take my advice for what it is I guess, but I recommend you run each voice coil on its own channel so the amp sees a total 6 Ohm load which will probably rate at about 208W RMS to each one...which is perfect as the sub in itself is rated at 400W RMS. Yay for wiring things correctly! Next, do what I said and save up for a nice JL amp. This post has been edited by snadman: Sep 2, 2005 - 2:30 AM -------------------- 95 Toyota Celica GT
Dead for now --> Soon to have a 3S-GTE 02 WRX --> This is for speed - Borla Exhaust - TurboXS BOV - Custom CAI 02 Civic EX - MB Quart Reference 5.25" Components - Rockford MTX 8" Subs in the doors - Alpine Type S Rear Fills - 2x Alpine SWR-1042D Subs in a custom fiberglass box - Alpine F345 Amp for the front doors - Alpine M605 on each Type R - Phoenix Gold wiring - Alpine CDA-9855 Head Unit - Alpine Amp link - 2x Rockford Fosgate 1 Farad Caps - The best Viper 791 alarm install ever |
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