Got my zex kit today, need to know |
Got my zex kit today, need to know |
Nov 3, 2005 - 2:17 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 3, '02 From bonzaisushi@hotmail.com Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
so ya i got my zex kit today. im thinkin im going to throw some copper plugs in instead of my NGK iridiums. since i believe copper is colder. i have a 2.5" exhaust and a intake, so hopefully that will reduce the stress put on the motor, i figure ill use it in 3rd gear... i dunno i know people think pretty negatively about nitrous on here. i guess im gunna find out how the motor holds up she has 105k on her, im gunna run a compression test before hand just to make sure. ive been leaking oil but im not sure from were yet. hopfully i can get that taken care of... and if the motor goes.... when mabye i can do a 3sgte swap.... we will find out.... anything else i need to know? advice? ill get some video.
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Nov 8, 2005 - 5:16 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Mar 31, '04 From Summerville, SC Currently Offline Reputation: 5 (100%) |
You guys need to stop spreading mis-information.
NEVER, EVER, EVER, EVER use a wet kit on an EFI car. Why? A wet kit injects fuel and N20 into the intake. Now, EFI cars, that is all not carbed, have intake manifolds that are SPECIALLY BUILT to flow ONLY air, not fuel. The flow dynamics of fuel is MUCH different than air. Using a wet kit on an EFI car WILL result in rich mixtures in some cylinders and lean conditions in others. (Carbed cars have specifically built intake manifolds that flow air and fuel evenly, so a wet kit is the right choice with these cars). With an EFI car you have the option of a dry kit, or port injection. NOTE: A DRY KIT DOES NOT LEAN OUT YOUR CAR!!! A dry kit increases fuel relative to the N20 injection by increasing fuel pressure. This is the #1 best way to make sure that you don't lean out in certain cylinders. The is the ideal kit to use on an EFI car. Make sure that everything is hooked up right and make sure your fuel pump is up to the job. Get yourself the proper switches, arming, RPM window switch, low pressure switch, wide open throttle switch, etc. Run plugs two heat ranges colder, copper are the best choice. Never use iridium, and platium is a waste of money. Also you can set up some piggybacks and most standalone ECUs to control and compensate for N20, which is wonderful, especially when you have a wideband to tune it with. The ultimate system is the port injection type which is very expensive, this injects N20 and fuel right at each port, so you don't have to worry about leaning out in different cylinders and you get the best distribution possible. This post has been edited by Dr_Tweak: Nov 8, 2005 - 5:25 AM -------------------- -Dr Tweak, 6GC's resident engine swap wiring expert extraordinaire Click here to see my swaps drtweak@phoenixtuning.com |
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