Intake Leak (can't find it, can't compensate with fuel) |
Intake Leak (can't find it, can't compensate with fuel) |
Dec 18, 2005 - 10:27 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 25, '05 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
I recently lost the rear main seal on my ST on the freeway, 700 miles from home. I siezed up #3 and beat the hell out of the sleeve.
So I replaced the engine. The mechanic royally screwed up my ECU harness and disconnected MAP signal on accident (I have a V-AFC wired, yes, I am using a V-AFC on purpose). I took the car home in limp mode to re-pin the harness myself. Did it and the car ran great, stronger than when I bought it and smooth as all let out. I drove the car to work the next day without incedent. I came home for lunch and noticed that I was Idling very high (about 1200 RPMs) and the engine was making some unplesant noise, namely some raspyness in the intake note. I tapped the trottle to make sure it wasn't stuck. No dice. The VAFC read an idle vacuum of -7.6psi. Prior to the engine swap, I was used to seeing -9.1psi (so the engine was under higher load now at idle than it ever was prior. And the Idle climbed to 1250 and then 1300 and then I shut off the car. When I fired the car back up 20 minutes later to go back to work, it was still idling that high and quite noisy in the front. When I got off of work I bought a can of carb cleaner and some high-quality 22GA butt splices and male/female connectors. I redid my entire harness, and the Idle RPM still stays steady at 1300 RPM. Driveability is still supurb. I added fuel with the V-AFC. I added more fuel with the VAFC. I could get the RPMs to momentarily dip and manifold pressure to drop to -8.6PSI for a little bit, but it would regulate to the same idle speed and pressure a moment later. I bathed the engine bay in carb cleaner. No dice. Can't find a leak althought I can **hear** the leak when driving (sounds like a supercharger spooling, if you've ever had an intake manifold leak you know what it sounds like). Causes for concern: A) Fuel economy is **** when at idle now. B) The VAFC MAP sensor isn't to scale because I don't know the correct sensor type. I use 6in 6out because it gets throttle and everything else right. I was accustomed to the old motor Idling at about -9.1 PSI and pegging up exactly to 7.6psi when at WOT (I know it's wrong, just keep following me). Now I Idle at about -7.6psi and I WOT at 3.2psi. That means that I am getting worse performance @ wot than previously. I can't say that I feel difference, the ST isn't exactly a stunner, but just knowing that sucks. So the Queston: It has the symptoms of a leak, it sounds like a leak, it looks like a leak, but why can't I find it? And why am I pulling less vac at WOT? Any help is mucho appreciated. -------------------- 1995 Celica ST - Riceball grocery getter. I saved her from Neons, 19" rims and TVs. All-stock save a weld-on muffler (does that count?) and V-AFC.
1991 CRX - The hobby car. I say that because I can never seem to get it completely together! |
Dec 19, 2005 - 10:32 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Aug 21, '04 From New York City Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
you installed a afc, so maybe you're dumping alot of fuel into the engine?
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Dec 19, 2005 - 11:43 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jul 25, '05 Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
QUOTE(shin @ Dec 19, 2005 - 10:32 AM) [snapback]368913[/snapback] you installed a afc, so maybe you're dumping alot of fuel into the engine? 0 setting across the board, same setting from the old engine as well. As far as OBDI and OBDII, in my experience with Hondas, they run completely different ECU harnesses and ECUs. I'll go pop he hood and check the block code anyway though, good thinking. -------------------- 1995 Celica ST - Riceball grocery getter. I saved her from Neons, 19" rims and TVs. All-stock save a weld-on muffler (does that count?) and V-AFC.
1991 CRX - The hobby car. I say that because I can never seem to get it completely together! |
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