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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) ![]() |
QUOTE(Fastbird @ Jul 9, 2006 - 7:36 PM) [snapback]453830[/snapback] QUOTE(gtfc115 @ Jul 9, 2006 - 2:22 PM) [snapback]453714[/snapback] is that an ATS TB inlet? looks nice. i ordered one last week! Yup, I ordered that and the GM Knock Sensor Conversion for Doc to install. Along with the healthy dose of goodies that he's putting in the car.......should be really niiiiiiice. ![]() i woudlnt recomend using the GM knock sensor. it dosnt work correctly for our cars and ats should stop selling it imho. keep the stock sensor. -------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) ![]() |
QUOTE(Fastbird @ Jul 10, 2006 - 2:08 PM) [snapback]454099[/snapback] QUOTE(jgreening @ Jul 10, 2006 - 11:57 AM) [snapback]454043[/snapback] knock sensors work because they blow when detonation occurs rather than grenading your engine. The reason people switch to the GM sensor is because it is "stout" and doesn't blow as often as the Toyota one. Just what I want in a knock sensor ![]() ![]() The problem with the Toyota knock sensors is that they're not very hardy. One good bout of knock and you've got a dead sensor. Next time you end up getting knock, with a dead sensor not detecting it, you are at MUCH increased risk of damaging your motor. I can personally attest to the GM knock sensors putting up with a TON of knock and not even batting an eye, I've seen it myself both in car and on the dyno multiple times. For the time being, I'm convinced that the GM conversion is a smart move. the GM sensor is tuned to a different frequency. its not going to hear a lot of the detonation that is going on and wont report detonation as well as the toyota one. the only time the toyota ones blow, is when there was very massive detonation. if this ever happens, it will throw a cel code right away and you will know about it. youll never be driving on a blown sensor and now know it. think of it like a fuse.... its the first thing to blow, and if it does, the ecu will go into safe mode and youll be glad the knock sensor is all that broke. ive had my factory one for 2+ years. never had any issues with it. i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this. This post has been edited by lagos: Jul 10, 2006 - 1:56 PM -------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Jan 17, '04 From Illinois Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) ![]() |
QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback] i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this. I love this quote and plan to utilize it in my signature. Thanks Art. Good luck with the car when its complete FastBird. Doc will fix you up! -------------------- QUOTE(lagos @ Jul 10, 2006 - 1:55 PM) [snapback]454118[/snapback] i know your trying to do the right thing for your motor, but this is one of those times where you should just trust the guys who have had their swaps for a while and have done a ton of research into this. |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: February 22nd, 2025 - 12:15 AM |