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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) ![]() |
QUOTE(Fastbird @ Jul 9, 2006 - 7:36 PM) [snapback]453830[/snapback] QUOTE(gtfc115 @ Jul 9, 2006 - 2:22 PM) [snapback]453714[/snapback] is that an ATS TB inlet? looks nice. i ordered one last week! Yup, I ordered that and the GM Knock Sensor Conversion for Doc to install. Along with the healthy dose of goodies that he's putting in the car.......should be really niiiiiiice. ![]() i woudlnt recomend using the GM knock sensor. it dosnt work correctly for our cars and ats should stop selling it imho. keep the stock sensor. -------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined Aug 31, '02 From Philadelphia, PA Currently Offline Reputation: 8 (100%) ![]() |
QUOTE shouldn't the GM sensor be just fine considering it was tested at 5700 and the Toyota one was tested at 6300?? what part of narrow band sensor dont you understand? narrow band means that its only tuned to pick up that one specific frequency. this is done so that the sensor will only pick up knock at the correct frequency and ignore any false alarms. if you agree that the sensors are not the same frequency, then you should know why its bad to use one. QUOTE I bought the GM knock sensor conversion so that if I DID encounted knock suddenly and violently, I wouldn't be stuck paying $150 for a new knock sensor. if you encounter massive knock .... it dosnt mean your sensor will blow. i got severe detonation on the dyno (with a dyno chart to prove it) and my knock sensor did its job and still works great since 1990. the ats kit costs about 80$ . a new OEM sensor from toyota sells for 124.27$. seeing as how its a vital part of the motor, this is not where i would cut my budget and try to save 40bucks QUOTE Yes, I am using the GM knock sensor because I know that it's harder to blow. Think about this: You're running the car hard without a datalogger. You start to get knock that you can't hear audibally, and it's working as advertised. Then the OEM one blows and before you have a chance to react (you're still in the gas) the knock continues and you pop a piston. I'd rather have the GM knock sensor in there with it's ability to take a bit more abuse than the OEM one. you clearly dont know how the whole knock system works. if the GM sensor can take more abuse, then it means that there is more abuse happening inside of you motor that the sensor is not picking up. youll blow a piston before you blow the sensor if you use the GM one. if the knock sensor ever blows (they very rarely blow on a stock 3s) the ecu will know it right away and save the motor. ==================================================================== now lets get down the the real issue here. drtweak talked you into all these upgrades and now is trying to fight tooth and nail so that he dosnt look like he made a bad call on something. thats all this is about. i mean, you have a million people on here trying to tell you how bad that sensor is, and only one person whos trying to play word games to try to justify keeping it. i dont know how you can ignore the advice of people who have daily driven, dynoed, tracked, and raced their swaped cars for years. -------------------- 15PSI - 30MPG - Megasquirt Tuned
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: February 22nd, 2025 - 5:14 AM |