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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 5, '05 From New-Brunswick Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) ![]() |
Precautions: do not connect the wire to the battery terminal until the wire is securely connected to the amp(s)
make sure you have a fuse at the battery end of the wire do not put the fuse in until you have the wire securely connected to the amp(s) **disclaimer** use this guide at your own risk Inside -Open the driver side door -Gently pull off the door step plastic peice (right next to the seat) -Remove the kick panel, there is one plastic nut next to the foot rest by the pedal, take off the trim on the left, only the end thats connected to the kick panel. Outside -Jack the car on the driver side -Remove the wheel -Remove all the screws that hold the inner fender mudguard -some are at the back and some at the edge of the fender -unclip the part that holds the mudguard to the fender lip -Pop the hood and stuff your wire here: (right by the fuse box next to the battery) ![]() -Pull the mudguard down enough that you can see the big black wire loom and you're able put your hand in there. It's flexible enough to bend down. (note: in the pict, i removed it completely, this is not necessary. If you try to remove it, you will encounter a problem with the screw holder where the mud flap is. If you really want to take the mudguard off, you will have to break those.) - Reach to your left to find your wire and pull it all the way thru (leave some length to connect to the battery with a little bit of slack) -On the right side you will find a grommet with a little nipple on it. Cut the nipple off. -Stuff your wire in there, it will come out inside the car right where the kick panel was ![]() -Pull it all the way through. Leave enough wire to zip tie it securely to the black wire loom inside the fender. (refer to pict above) -At this point you can reassemble the mudguard (it goes inside the fender lip, you will have to tuck it back in) -Put the wheel back on (don't forget to torque the lug nuts) -Drop the car Back Inside -Pull off the carpet next to the seat to reveale the flat white box full of wires (take notice of the clips on the side of the box) -Run your wire along that box and clip it into place using the clips on the white box. (note: the clips can only be used for 4g or smaller. For bigger wires, cut the clips off and run it along the white box, the carpet will hold your wire in place. The pict shows a 0g wire with the clips cut off) ![]() -Stuff your wire under the rear seat side panel -Pull up on the bottom of the back seat (it needs some force). You can't remove the back seat but you can work with it loose. -Find your wire and pull it all the way through -At this point you can reassemble the kick panel, carpet and door step -It's your choice to either pass the wire under the seat to the trunk or push it up and fish it out on the other side of the panel. -Once that is done, put the seat back in it's place (the two little hooks goes into the clips on the edge of the floor of the seat) stomp on it to clip it back in place. Install your amps securely and enjoy ![]() (for suggestions, typos or any other questions, PM me) This post has been edited by K-ESD: Jul 20, 2006 - 9:12 PM -------------------- ----------------------6GC's FIRST V6----------------------
![]() JDM 96 MR2-T Faster - 94 Celica GT 3MZFE Funner - 99 Rav 4 AWD Handy |
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![]() Enthusiast ![]() ![]() ![]() Joined May 5, '05 From New-Brunswick Canada Currently Offline Reputation: 3 (100%) ![]() |
QUOTE(nightrider @ Aug 22, 2006 - 5:30 AM) [snapback]471521[/snapback] running wires of this ampage through the bodywork is the best way to kill yourself in a crash as the wire will be live from the batt to the fuse. I would suggest that you come along the side of the rear seat along the bottom of the door frame and into the engine bay via the fire wall gromet. I would fuse the wire at both ends to prevent fire should the wire be damaged during a crash. Hope this helps? It doesn't really help, I appreciate your input tho. Any size wire will carry MAXIMUM current in event of a unfused short. It's the small wires you have to worry about because they require less current to burn up quicker. Messing up your relocating wire is the LEAST of your worries in an accident. If you hit hard enough to damage it, your car is totaled. If it shorts in the even of an accident, the fuse will go "pak" and the wire becomes dead. The whole car's electrical will go dead because it is the main source. Also, in the same location, inside the stock wire loom in the fener, you will find a group of heavy gauge wires that provide power to the fuse box under the dash. I believe Toyota (and every other car manifacture) thought about the event of an accident and how those wires would be affected. Obviously a fuse needs to be at the battery end in event of a short of the big wire, thats a rule of thumb. (ie: read the first few lines). There is no need to put it at two ends because current is only coming from one location, the battery (where the fuse is). The only other device that produces current is the alternator and it is fused at the front engine fuse box. I don't mean to be offensive but I believe what you just said is simply a form of misinformation. In other words, sorry, no offense. I'm not trying to pick a fight. ok? ![]() Please spend some time reading on www.bcae1.com. You might find alot of interesting theory. -------------------- ----------------------6GC's FIRST V6----------------------
![]() JDM 96 MR2-T Faster - 94 Celica GT 3MZFE Funner - 99 Rav 4 AWD Handy |
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