Proper suspension set-up Options

[hitcachi]

Well all my posting and talking to jdg and boosted on the autocross thread has me really going! My current set-up is as stands: 3 point front strut bar, 2 point rear strut bar. Front and rear Suspension techniques sway bars. Intrax lowering springs. JIC lower frame brace in the mail. and KYB GR-2's pending this question. I have a sport option GT. Should i replace the sealed struts with new ones (yes im willing to pay) or go source some other struts and install gr-2's? Also tires are being taking care of as well so thats no big thing. I need some more advice on what to do about the shocks though. Thanks!

[hitcachi]

get konis if your serious about autox the right way....you'll need the adjustment....invest in some camber plates from cusco http://www.japanparts.com/ (hint look under the ST205 it will fit)

wat size tires and wheels are you using..that makes a drastic affect

and for the fender braces...they are easy to make...long as you know someone with a welder they can be made for about 20$

Thanks dan for all the info. Honestly, i havent done much research into the koni's, but thats why i posted this. The camber plates i might hold off on for now. What sucks is i gotta go source some damn non sealed struts first. I can probably get some fender braces made by my local muffler shop. I know the guy pretty well.
I going to keep my 16 in. GTS wheels on and just put a wide ass tire on them. I would like to put on something bigger like.....a 17 but the intrax springs were a huge drop.

#1 thing to do is once your suspension is solid and its at a place where you plan to leave it for a while is get a custom alignment.

Can you explain a little more what you mean by a custom alignment. I was going to take it to a shop that specializes (i cant spell right now, please excuse) in suspension work. Little place called Inline Suspension. But i guess im not sure what your talking about.

This post has been edited by hitcachi: Aug 24, 2006 - 12:22 PM

[andrewb0x29a]

Honestly, i havent done much research into the koni's, but thats why i posted this. The camber plates i might hold off on for now. What sucks is i gotta go source some damn non sealed struts first.

No need to get non-sealed struts. The Konis for the rear are designed to use the existing sealed strut body in the rear. You just have to cut off the top of the strut and add a bolt hole to the bottom. Once I had all the necessary tools it took about an hour per strut. Fronts were faster since they already take inserts. If you want to spend even more $$$ then you can have Koni modify the shocks to make them double adjustable and modify the valving to suit your needs.

Can you explain a little more what you mean by a custom alignment. I was going to take it to a shop that specializes (i cant spell right now, please excuse) in suspension work. Little place called Inline Suspension. But i guess im not sure what your talking about.

I am running -2.5 degrees of camber on the front wheels. For a normal alignment most shops will just adjust the toe. Since camber is not adjustable on our cars you will need to install camber plates or camber bolts. Camber plates are much easier to work with. I would have done them but they aren't allowed for stock autoX classes. I installed the crash bolts instead. I would recommend going to a place that does autoX alignments. I went to a normal shop and had to explain to the mechanic how to adjust the camber. Once he understood what needed to be done he did a decent job but it was annoying that I had to tell him how to do it.

[hitcachi]

I am running -2.5 degrees of camber on the front wheels. For a normal alignment most shops will just adjust the toe. Since camber is not adjustable on our cars you will need to install camber plates or camber bolts. Camber plates are much easier to work with. I would have done them but they aren't allowed for stock autoX classes. I installed the crash bolts instead. I would recommend going to a place that does autoX alignments. I went to a normal shop and had to explain to the mechanic how to adjust the camber. Once he understood what needed to be done he did a decent job but it was annoying that I had to tell him how to do it.

so with you -2.5 degrees of front camber, you tires wear faster, but you have....less understeer? What is it getting you? And I've always been under the impression that celicas have slightly ajustable camber from the factory..., also explain more about the custom work with the rear struts? Sorry for the questions, i just believe that these cars have alot of potential through the suspension.

[andrewb0x29a]

so with you -2.5 degrees of front camber, you tires wear faster, but you have....less understeer? What is it getting you? And I've always been under the impression that celicas have slightly ajustable camber from the factory...,

For street use the inside edge of the tire should wear faster but I have noticed anything significant yet. For autocrossing it actually results in less wear (the outside edges are what get all the abuse). As far as driving goes it gives quicker turn in and allows me to keep on the power more through turns. I reran a practice course after I did the shocks and the alignment. With the changes I got rid of braking completely for some turns and some hard braking maneuvers became light taps. Since our cars are underpowered anything that can be done to avoid slowing down helps.

also explain more about the custom work with the rear struts? Sorry for the questions, i just believe that these cars have alot of potential through the suspension.

Assuming you have the rear shocks removed already, you start the installation by turning the strut body upside down and finding the center of the bottom plate. You then use a punch to make an indent in the center and drill a small (1/16" or so) hole in the bottom. This relieves the pressure on the shock and also serves as a starting point for the bolt hole later.

Then, using a hacksaw or cutoff tool you cut the top ~1 inch from the strut body (where the rod goes in). You just have to cut about 1/4" inch in all the way around. I put it in a vise and used an air cutoff tool. Most of the time was spent waiting for my small compressor to build up pressure so I could resume cutting.

With the top of the shock cut off you them dump all the internals into the trash. Using a file you remove and burrs from the cut-off section of the strut body. Finally, you drill out the hole on the bottom of the strut using a larger drill bit. I don't remember the size but it was > 1/4".

Now you get to install the Koni into the strut. You insert the strut into the body and hammer it into place using a rubber mallet. Once it is far enough in you put the bolt through the bottom of the strut tube and tighten it down. Now you just reverse the steps for removing the strut.

These aren't the best instructions and I should have taken pictures while doing it but I started on a Wed night and had to have it done for a Sat autoX...