6G Celicas Forums

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> rear sway bar end link removal, how-to w/pics
post Sep 18, 2006 - 12:23 AM
+Quote Post
Batman722



Enthusiast
*****
Joined Mar 8, '04
From Newport, RI
Currently Offline

Reputation: 63 (99%)




there are a few ways to remove the sway bar end links. You need to remove them (or at least the top bolt) to change your rear struts (for lowering and such).

this is a commonly used and a very effective way here

QUOTE
spray the old links down really well with PB blaster like 15min before you start,
put a 14mm boxed end wrench over the old end link bolt, turn it, to break it loose from the mounting tab.
then
get a 5mm allen SOCKET.
this is what it looks like:
IPB Image
hammer it into the old endlink.
attach a wrachet to the socket, and use that to hold the bolt in place, and turn the 14mm WRENCH, not the socket.

^^ taken from an old post by presure2

the problem is that our cars are getting older and bolts exposed to the elements tend to rust/sieze up, and with this method sometimes the allen wrench/allen socket would strip out the end link. As posted here by dustin15brown

At this point there aren't too many options. The first time this happen to me, Manny (presure2) used a sawzall to cut through the old links. That took a long while and obviously we had to replace them.

Since then we have run into the same stripped out allen hole problem again. Manny (presure2) had developed a new way to remove them without the hassles we have had before.

here we go with the "JDM Guy" way

tools needed :
14mm socket and rachet
needle nose vise grips
PB Blaster


once you have gotten the wheel off things should look like this

IPB Image

this is the end link

IPB Image

use this

IPB Image

to do this

IPB Image

another angle

IPB Image

I then used a jack to lift up the knuckle to put less strain on the end link

IPB Image

make sure the vise grips are not grabbing the boot of the end link, you do not want to tear it if you plan on reusing the link.

also, make sure you spray things down with some PB Blaster to help the removal process

then use the 14mm socket w/rachet to turn the nut holding the link

IPB Image

just make sure you hold the vise grips steady and remove the nut

the end result should look like this

IPB Image

IPB Image

and another angle of the vise grips on the "lip" of the end link - between the boot and the threaded bolt

IPB Image



any questions ?



--------------------
 
Start new topic
Replies
post Sep 18, 2006 - 4:26 PM
+Quote Post
LewFX



Enthusiast
*****
Joined Jan 28, '05
From Redondo Beach, CA
Currently Offline

Reputation: 86 (100%)




i tried pb blaster, a allen key, 14mm with okiers on joes lonks and they still stripped on me and ended up cutting them.when is someone gonna tell us how those new links are the newer reinforced ones.


--------------------
IPB Image
post Sep 18, 2006 - 5:54 PM
+Quote Post
presure2



Moderator
*****
Joined Oct 1, '02
From fall river, ma
Currently Offline

Reputation: 13 (100%)




QUOTE(LewFX @ Sep 18, 2006 - 5:26 PM) [snapback]481093[/snapback]

i tried pb blaster, a allen key, 14mm with okiers on joes lonks and they still stripped on me and ended up cutting them.when is someone gonna tell us how those new links are the newer reinforced ones.

i would have no problem or reservation at all with using them, the mr2 guys have been using them for years with great results. wink.gif


--------------------
Former Team 5SFTE pro member ;)

13.6@108MPH, 5SFTE Powered

Posts in this topic


Reply to this topicStart new topic
2 User(s) are reading this topic (2 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



Lo-Fi Version Time is now: February 20th, 2025 - 3:45 PM