AAGH, shift lever- the custom ss thread! Options

[uberschall]

i'm trying to make a short shifter, per mywhite94celicagt's how-to,

http://www.6gc.net/howto/make_custom_short_shifter

and i've hit a couple of issues. i pm'ed him a few days back and he hasn't gotten back to me, so i figured i'd ask everyone else.

does anybody know what size/length the pin pressed into the side of the ball is? (the one that holds it in place on the lever)

i've drilled well past the o.d. of the main lever, and it still won't move when i smack the top of it with a punch.

help!


EDIT: i figured it out, see below. this will now be my thread for progress on the project. the goal is a functional short shifter for a paltry 15 bucks.
that's using a spare, you could do it to your own FO' FREE. i'll have a spare, who knows...maybe i'll make another and sell it!

EDIT TWO: really, i just want to spread the love. this is a pretty easy mod you can save yourself at least $40 by doing.

This post has been edited by uberschall: Oct 3, 2006 - 11:02 PM

[uberschall]

okay, i went berserk and got it sorted out.

stay tuned, tomorrow i'm going to hit it with the mig and probably get it in the car on thursday.

for those of you who might be interested in this mod, additions to the how-to are the following:

1. when drilling out the pin, you should use a bit the size of the funnel-shaped part of the hole in the ball.

2. use a feeler guage to determine how deep you've gone with the drill, you only need to drill until you hit the shaft.

3. after you've cut off the top part and you're ready to tap the lower shaft down, secure the part in something with a cylindrical hole only slightly bigger than the shaft and smaller than the ball (obviously). i used a piece of galvanized pipe clamped securely in a vise. if you use anything that's not round, you're going to leave some nasty witness marks on the ball that you'll have to smooth out afterwards.

4. don't be afraid to smack the living crap out of the punch, the shaft is wedged pretty tight. if necessary, drill a pilot hole for the head of the punch. (that's where i got stuck, the thing wouldn't move)

5. the more of the lower shaft you push out, the more likely you are to run into spacing issues with the floorpan. i only pushed it out about 1/2" to avoid any clearance problems.

6. welding is the best option when re-attaching the upper shaft, with the bend opposite the side actuator arm. i wouldn't trust quick steel, jb weld, or anything else. if that thing busts loose on the freeway, you're up the proverbial creek!