Nitrous Oxide Advice Options

[Killswitch]

First off I need opinions on what is the best Nitrous setup on my car. After a complete motor rebuild what is the limit off the nitrous I can push? Anyone have some setups they can show me?

[NuclearHappineS]

that dyno is of a person who is spraying a 75 shot on a 100hp motor, that's more than 50% non progressive. That is also a dry kit which will start out lean for sure (the way dry kits are designed unless you're spraying through a MAF/MAS/AFM.

the problem is, you guys don't understand how nitrous works. and thus you dont understand that the setup i recommended would perform and last completely differently than that of the setup you have posted about.

A dry kit will raise fuel pressure by about 100-120%, which is an increase in fuel flow of about 45-50% ...

a motor that makes 100 at 6000 rpms (the dyno you posted) , makes about 50hp at 3000rpms and 100hp at 6000 rpms roughly

50% of 50 hp is a 25shot at 3000 rpms
50% of 100hp is a 50shot at 6000 rpms

The person is spraying a 75shot on a 100hp motor... that means they will be about moving about :

50+75= 100hp worth of air at 3000 rpms
50*1.5 = 75hp worth of fuel at 3000 rpms
and
100+75 = 175hp worth of air at 6000 rpms
100*1.5 = 150hp worth of fuel at 6000 rpms

assuming the air fuel ratio was a safe adn rich 10:1 on that motor before beying sprayed

that means the a/f ratio will be
100/75*10 = 13.3:1 at 3000 rpms
175/150*10= 11.6:1 at 6000 rpms

oh darn, look at the graph, looks like the a/f ratio is a bit leaner than 14:1 at low rpms, and ramps up to 11.5:1 at higher rpms...so maybe i have a clue what i'm talking about...

To make a dry kit like this effective it would be best to:

1- use it on a big motor, where a 50% shot comes out to something nice like 75,100 or 150 hp (ie starting with a 150,200 , or 300hp v6 motor)
2- use it with a progressive controller to where you get a shot equal to half of what you're jetted at (which is half fo the motor's peak hp) ...and ram up to 100% of your jetting ( which is half of the motor's peak hp)

then you will find that it will give a nice turbo like bump in hp, and your a/f will be a nice flat 11.5:1 throughout the whole rpm range (and this is on a dry kit) and that makes this really safe.

The wet kit injects fuel through the nozzle

so at 3000rpms

you get :
50hp + 75hp worth of air =125hp
50hp + 75hp worth of fuel = 125hp worth of fuel

at 6000 rpms
you get
100+75hp worth of air = 175hp
100+75hp woirth of fuel = 175hp

if u started with a 10:1 a/f ratio

you will end up with
125/125*10=10:1 A/F ratio
175/175*10=10:1 A/F ratio

see , for most people that don't understand howi nitrous works, a wet kit is safer because it is independant of injector duty cycle ...just adds xhp worth of air and x hp worth of fuel and you're good to go.

Dry kits are good too but you have to have a clue...and sorry to say, the person taht owns that ST with the zex kit edoes NOT have a clue