Kinda feel bad, but thinking about selling the 4, Have way too many cars |
Kinda feel bad, but thinking about selling the 4, Have way too many cars |
Oct 9, 2006 - 5:27 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 25, '04 From Henniker, NH USA Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
So ya, I have been tossing around the idea of selling the GT-Four, she is a great car and is running great now but it is more I have way too many cars to keep them all up. I mean this winter I am building a Delorean w/ a rotary in it along with refitting my RX-7 for SCCA track use and just don't have the time to give the car the love it needs. And this isn't the only one going I am selling my Jeep too. I already sold my old Corvette and handed off 2 other RX-7's. Ya I had a problem, leave me alone. Anyone interested let me know, I haven't settled on a price because the car isn't ready for sale, I am going to finish the brake job and some other little things before I sell it, so looking around November to put it up. Any questions can be posted, PMed or emailed to otakurx@gmail.com. If you are in a different state I don't know how your emissions are so you may need to install a cat on the car, NH doesn't have an emissions check really so I stripped it of that.
Peace, Mike PS: Pictures of the rebuild can be found here http://zatoichi.is-a-geek.org/celcia/index2.html -------------------- 1995 Celica GT-Four
-Fresh motor -GT35 turbo -and all JDM |
Oct 13, 2006 - 6:54 AM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 6, '06 From UK Currently Offline Reputation: 0 (0%) |
Not meaning to be negative here or anything but im just wondering what you are using to drive the 850 jectors?? On your list you haven’t mentioned anything.
The Blitz is the same as the OEM ECU, programmed for 550’s… If that’s all your relying on then I would say the block, rings, CAT & O2 sensor would be shot, if not then suffering badly from bore wash or the effects of it, then there’s your fuel consumption, you might as well throw the money into a fire. To all those looking to buy a faff the ownership costs are extreme to say the least: Oil change every 3K miles (Something like Silkolene Pro R 15w-50, 5 Litres @ around $20 per litre) Gearbox & diff oil every 9K miles (Something like Silkolene Silktran Syn 5, 7 litres @ around $22 per litre) Plugs every 2nd or 3rd oil change $86 Cam belt kit is $445, change every 60,000 on the clock (Don’t forget every time the water pump, oil pump, intercooler pump goes you need to change the cam belt & tensioner) Dizzy is $115 Rotor Arm for Dizzy is $25 Front brake discs are $372 a set Rear brake discs are $372 a set Front brake pads are $107 (2 corners = 4 x pads) Rear brake pads are $80 (2 corners = 4 x pads) Rear handbrake shoes are around $100 (2 corners = 4 x pads) Tyres, yes the myth is true, if one tyre goes bald all 4 have to be replaced (Unless you go for the same make/model & type of tyre). If your tyres last say 6K’s at 3K’s swap the rear tyres to the front to give them even wear & make them last longer, the faff is a true 50:50 split car not a 60:40 front bias!! If you swap just the front tyres or just the rear tyres you might get a confliction in the rolling radius which will eat your rear Diff for breakfast (See Diff price below) That’s your general maintenance service prices… Then you have the problematic parts that just die & die very often… Knock sensor $225(Only use a Toyota ST205 (MKIII MR2) sensor, there is a GM sensor cheapo fix but people in the UK who have tried them have killed their engines very quickly, the GM sensor is not as sensitive as the Toyota one. A good loud knock can blow a brand new Toyota sensor so have a few of these as spares to hand). Intercooler pump $884 Radiator $525 A single driveshaft new is around $1200 A single wheel bearing is $149 (Then you need 2 seals for it at $28 each) Total $205 A drive shaft boot/gaiter is $149… Yes $149 for a bit of rubber!!!! CV joint around $300 inc boot (You could get through a few of these puppies) Rear Diff around $1800 Gearbox around $900 second hand, the stock box is good for 600Bhp… only problem is the synchros are made of chocolate, don’t know how to stick shift?? Don’t use this car to learn, it will punish you & cost a fortune to repair. Now we get to the fabled super strut suspension… Fig 8 & lower arm number 1 needs to be changed when this goes $1710 total, but you maybe unlucky & have to replace lower arm number 2 $2584 total (I’m on my 3rd set of lower arms & fig 8’s, since I’ve owned the car). Fig 8 $204 (You need 2 of these) Lower Arm 1 $651 (You need 2 of these) Lower Arm 2 $437 (You need 2 of these) All of these are UK supply prices from Toyota Japan converted to US $’s, they are just for the PARTS you then need to pay for fitting & labour on top of that, at the moment Toyota UK charge £90 per hour labour which is around $167. Yes your local mechanic can do it cheaper blah, blah, blah but you will learn very quickly not to trust ANYONE to do ANYTHING on a faff that doesn’t know these cars inside out, it’s a very expensive mistake to make & you will only make it once trust me on that!! After all that the GT4 (All models) are a true driver cars, very satisfying to drive & a true beast on a track or gravel course. What I mean by a drivers car is that you as a person have to know how to drive to use it. Cars like the Superpoo & EVO are all controlled by a computer, any muppet can get in one & make it perform… with the GT4 it is all mechanical & skill pure & simple, if you don’t know how to drive on the edge then this is not the car for you |
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