If you're in the process of turboing your ST..., READ... Options

[OOBE]

Ok, like most 7A-FTErs, I got bit by the bad luck bug. SOOOOO, here's some tips to save you guys money, pain, trouble and time:

1)Don't drive to the muffler shop with the turbo installed without a deflector in the exhaust housing...it'll melt your radiator reservoir cap AND the hood cable...you won't be able to open it from inside...yes...I did that and I paid the expensive price...READ ON.

2)Since the hood has the latch, it's impossible for it to open, but it won't look good. That's what I thought, so I removed the latch assembly and secured the hood with wire...I wrapped the end around a bolt head underneath the bumper. By the way, at 40 MPH, our hood is light as a paper...it'll bend like it too. I never thought or believed that hoods could open while driving...well...the wind gets under the bumper and lifts it with ease so yes, it's real...hoods CAN open with relative ease. NEVER do that stupid fix I did. Thank goodness I have a GT-4 hood in my room so I'll mail it back home. Does anybody have a sunroof? My hood broke mine and the glass

3)ALWAYS secure TIGHTLY EVERY hose, even vacuum ones...they misteriously pop off, causing your turbo to overboost or the engine to pump out ALL the fuel out of the tank in less than 2 minutes...and creating a very potential fire hazard by gushing EVERYTHING in your engine bay with fuel. SCARY? Yes, and it happened to me also.

4)ONLY use battery wire if you're rellocating your battery to the trunk. I decided to use the same one that goes to the amp (4 gauge) since it was routed already and the battery cable costed +$100 for a few feet. Well, somehow something happened inside the amp cable that made my engine die in the middle of a traffic jam with 90 degree outside temperature and my 74 year old father sitting in the passenger seat looking at me in awe. I get out to check the battery terminals and they were connected. I check all the fuses and all were good. The car after 5 minutes decided to start chirping the alarm and work normally. Then the same night I turned the key to start it and everything died. 30 minutes later the alarm started chirping like the battery was low...a very low, energy-less chirp. I opened the hood and it started sounding loud, hurting my ears like a son of a gun. So yes, don't go cheap and buy some good cable made FOR battery.

5)DON'T go cheap on engine oil...and DON'T use Lucas Oil Stabilizer...it's too thick and it'll make your turbo choke...that's one reason while my car smoked so much. I did a Gunk Engine Flush and put some Valvoline VR-1 Racing 20W-50 oil in there and it still smoked, but it was because of the bad piston ring. READ AHEAD.



More tips and DON'T DOs later. I'm going to bed now...gotta fly a cool mission tomorrow night

This post has been edited by OOBE: Nov 27, 2007 - 10:28 PM

[doGGy]

There is some good info and missleading info - speacialy with the PCV thing that your buddy did. He did it right - cuz if you leave the PCV coneccted to your valve cover - you will get BOOST in your valve cover - this will lead you to blowing oil all over the valve cover seals. Originaly on my STT and on Martins setup - i left the PCV's on valve cover open and ran the,m donw to the engine bay, and i shutted down the pcv's on Intake manifold - this way avoiding boost getting into the engine.

Another MOST IMPORTANT thing if you gonna go boost - ECU. Either Stand alone - or Emanage ULTIMATE!!!! You need perfect tuning if you want your engine lasting long enouth.