Checking Codes -- Gen II Swap Options

[Fastbird]

Driving home from work today, check engine light came on. No immediately apparent driveability issues until I tried to accelerate from a stop. Barely able to do it and car would buck and surge like crazy. I got up to speed and putting the car in neutral, shut if off for about 5 seconds (still rolling mind you, just in case it didn't want to start back up) and then I keyed the power on and let the clutch out, and she came right back to life, no check engine life. All seemed fine. About 10 minutes later, did the same thing, so I did the same thing. All was fine again all the rest of the way home.

Is there any way to check the codes on the Gen II swaps??

[lagos]

well, the harness connection is worth inspecting. but i know from my own car that i used to get knock at 15psi and above before i got the water injection. i would imagine that your car gets it too when you run 17 psi or when you hit 20psi that one time. did you ever feel a hesitation or loss of power while driving? sometimes knock response can be hard to notice just based on feel.

it takes the ecu some time to realize that its no longer getting a signal from the knock sensor. so you wont see the CEL the moment that the sensor failed. then when you cycle the key on and off, the ecu starts trying to listen to the knock sensor all over again.... when it doesn't hear it for a few minutes, it throws the code again.

[Fastbird]

well, the harness connection is worth inspecting. but i know from my own car that i used to get knock at 15psi and above before i got the water injection. i would imagine that your car gets it too when you run 17 psi or when you hit 20psi that one time. did you ever feel a hesitation or loss of power while driving? sometimes knock response can be hard to notice just based on feel.

it takes the ecu some time to realize that its no longer getting a signal from the knock sensor. so you wont see the CEL the moment that the sensor failed. then when you cycle the key on and off, the ecu starts trying to listen to the knock sensor all over again.... when it doesn't hear it for a few minutes, it throws the code again.

I actually noticed no hesitations or power drops when it was boosting that high. I have the fuel cells set up to keep it fairly rich up top to combat the odds of knock (note to self: wire that resistor in to the SMT 6 and pull a couple of degrees up top anyway).

It's completely random when the light was thrown. I had driven to work for 1+15 that morning without incident. Driving home, about 25 minutes into it the light came on, I reset, and within 10 minutes came back on. I reset again and for the last 30 minutes home it was uneventful.

I'll probably toss a replacement in there anyway. Can't hurt.