engine light Options

[celicaboston1983]

My engine light has been on for two yrs now I believe it was the egr code. And I'm probley not gonna bother fixing it. I was just wondering if there anything I can do to disable the check engine light like pull a fuse or bulb I need my inspection sticket done soon.

[alltracman78]

Some 5SFEs have the valve and metal line as one piece IIRC.
Others [such as apparently yours] have the metal line separate.
If you already cleaned yours out, that pretty much rules it out.

There is a passage in the head from the #4 exhaust port[s] [educated guess, I've never actually probed to see where it goes] to the fitting that metal hose threads to. If this is clogged it will cause that code.

Also, the hole in the intake manifold where the EGR valve bolts to can get clogged. It's not as likely, but if it does, it can slow/stop flow.

I am a big proponent of Seafoam. I've used it many times on my cars.
The only thing I stay away from is using it in the oil.
Anyways, unfortunately it won't do much for the EGR. Not unless you directly soak the passages with it. They make another product called Deep Creep that is basically a spray version of it [think PB Blaster]. You can try sourcing this and soaking the area. But a screwdriver [be careful with it] and a rifle brush is probably best for this.


Your 2 EVAP vacuum lines have nothing to do with EGR. They happen to be grouped with the EGR vacuum lines [think of it as a vacuum line harness instead of a wiring harness].
One goes from the canister to the BVSV, the other goes from the BVSV to the TB. This one has a check valve in it I believe. Very small brown plastic piece in the line.
All of your vacuum lines are marked [as long as they are OEM], so you can tell which is which. Look at the length of them. They will have a number and/or symbol next to it. Like #4 or *3. The other end of the line has the same symbol.

If the EGR vacuum lines aren't routed correctly [which I think you already pointed out] you can get a code.

Also, one more thing.
5SFEs tend to leak oil from the rear of the valve cover and HG.
This oil can get on electrical connectors and distort/block signals.
So if your EGR VSV and connector are covered in oil, this could also be causing the problem. I assume you know where they are.
Don't clean them with brake cleaner. It dries plastic. Use a plastic cleaner, or a quick disconnect cleaner. It will tell you on the bottle if it's safe for plastics or not.

and EGR vacuum manifold

It's actually a vacuum modulator. AKA the EGR modulator.
If you still have the emissions sticker under your hood [on the underside] it has vacuum hose routing info.

[6strngs]

Some 5SFEs have the valve and metal line as one piece IIRC.
Others [such as apparently yours] have the metal line separate.
If you already cleaned yours out, that pretty much rules it out.

There is a passage in the head from the #4 exhaust port[s] [educated guess, I've never actually probed to see where it goes] to the fitting that metal hose threads to. If this is clogged it will cause that code.

Also, the hole in the intake manifold where the EGR valve bolts to can get clogged. It's not as likely, but if it does, it can slow/stop flow.

I am a big proponent of Seafoam. I've used it many times on my cars.
The only thing I stay away from is using it in the oil.
Anyways, unfortunately it won't do much for the EGR. Not unless you directly soak the passages with it. They make another product called Deep Creep that is basically a spray version of it [think PB Blaster]. You can try sourcing this and soaking the area. But a screwdriver [be careful with it] and a rifle brush is probably best for this.


Your 2 EVAP vacuum lines have nothing to do with EGR. They happen to be grouped with the EGR vacuum lines [think of it as a vacuum line harness instead of a wiring harness].
One goes from the canister to the BVSV, the other goes from the BVSV to the TB. This one has a check valve in it I believe. Very small brown plastic piece in the line.
All of your vacuum lines are marked [as long as they are OEM], so you can tell which is which. Look at the length of them. They will have a number and/or symbol next to it. Like #4 or *3. The other end of the line has the same symbol.

If the EGR vacuum lines aren't routed correctly [which I think you already pointed out] you can get a code.

Also, one more thing.
5SFEs tend to leak oil from the rear of the valve cover and HG.
This oil can get on electrical connectors and distort/block signals.
So if your EGR VSV and connector are covered in oil, this could also be causing the problem. I assume you know where they are.
Don't clean them with brake cleaner. It dries plastic. Use a plastic cleaner, or a quick disconnect cleaner. It will tell you on the bottle if it's safe for plastics or not.

and EGR vacuum manifold

It's actually a vacuum modulator. AKA the EGR modulator.
If you still have the emissions sticker under your hood [on the underside] it has vacuum hose routing info.

thanks for the info. I never checked the hoses for markings or anything, but I don't think they have any.

I found a diagram in my hayne's manual that shows all the vacuum lines for 92 and up 5sfe's, and the way it looks, the hoses from the EGR and vacuum module route to the BVSV for the EVAP. but, it could be just confusing in the diagram, cause it's not easy to see. I will find out where they really go today because I'm going to pull the entire EGR system off, inspect all passage-ways, check and replace as necessary all the vaccum lines, and possibly replace the VSV. if that still doesn't work, I bought a 4.7K ohm resistor yesterday so I could make the CEL go away the cheating way. lol