sputtering problem, engine running rough Options

[BlueCeliGT]

So here's the deal...

When she starts up first thing in the morning she runs great. But as the engine warms up it has a rough idle(a bouncing effect) and when i hit the gas it'll sputter then catch but still not at full power. Cleaned the intake filter(aem cold air) changed plug wires and cap(no rotor tho), plugs are a month old and were pulled to have gaps checked. It started after we got a big snowstorm here a few weeks ago so i was thinking possibly a problem in the fuel system but looking for other ideas

Thanks

Eric

[alltracman78]

It could be the ISC [Toyota calls it a ISC -Idle Speed Control] valve. It certainly won't hurt to clean it out. Spray it down and scrub with a toothbrush or such. Spray/scrub the part that has the single vacuum line. Get that movable piece good and clean. That's for the air to flow. The part with 2 lines is a heater for the TB. Coolant flows through it. Don't worry about that.
Also don't lose the rubber seal for it.

But, if it's a constant, all the time surge up and down, there is also the possibility of a vacuum leak.

However, in your particular case I'm not quite as sure. Being OBDII, the ECU should be more sensitive to these things, and as such set the CEL.
However, you also have the 1st year of it, so it's not what it is now.
Also, having a pressure instead of flow based system [your engine uses a MAP sensor instead of a MAF to determine fuel supply] that might also desensitize the ECU......

There is one thing you might be able to try.
For at least the 92 - 95 5S there is a secondary, more sensitive diagnostic mode that can be used to help detect elusive problems. It's mainly to detect bad connections, but MIGHT work in this case too.
Locate the DLC1 [Data Link Connector, AKA diag box], and open it.
Locate TE2 [not TE1, TE2] and E1.
Using a paper clip or similar "tool", jump the two. Use one the right size. DON'T force too large a "tool" in there.
Now, drive your car above 6 MPH [below that will set a speed sensor code] around the block or such. Drive it for a few miles or until the CEL comes on. Make sure the engine is warmed up BEFORE performing this test.

Once you get back, jump TE1 and E1.
See if you have any codes.

This might or might not work on a 96^. Most likely it still will, but I can't promise. I'll try to remember to check at work tomorrow and see if it's listed in the BGB.

Sapperk, I didn't see that you had changed your cap/rotor in your list.
If not, and they're not in good condition, it certainly won't hurt to change them too.
I highly recommend OEM for them, NOT aftermarket.

www.1sttoyotaparts.com and www.partznet.com are two good online dealers that sell cheaper than normal dealers.

This post has been edited by alltracman78: Mar 21, 2007 - 5:56 PM