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> 8-inch door speakers
post Feb 6, 2007 - 7:39 PM
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pepsiman



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I was thinking about putting some 8-inch subs in my doors but i just read that it will rattle the doors real bad...what can i do to prevent this? I have never opened up the guts of my door can u put plenty of sound deading in there? Will that stop the rattles? Also does the subs in the door have to be shallow mount to fit? What is a good 8 inch sub? pionneer has no 8's on their site but primeir does but they are alittle pricey for me i dont need anything crazy just wantin to add some bass but it dont have to be crazy
 
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post Mar 22, 2007 - 9:44 AM
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applejax

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soven makes some very good points as to why subs in the doors are very difficult.

If you put subs in the doors, you will need to totally seal them off, at minimum so the front is sealed from the back (this includes any other holes in the inside metal of the door). There are many other reasons why it is a tough idea to just consider getting the sub in a door correctly in the first place, but let's also examine some other issues if you did manage to get the subs in there.

You need mids and tweets up there, be they seperate components or stuck together in a coaxial speaker. Tweets (if seperate) are pretty easy to move around, but you'd need to have some sort of location for the mids, be it in custom kickpanels or in a further modification of the door itself (keep in mind here that the mid would need its own airspace, seperate from the sub).

A better option, given your concerns, would be to put the subs in your deck or trunk (coupe, right?), and either move those 6x9's, or more ideally get a nice coaxial or component set, into the doors.

This post has been edited by applejax: Mar 22, 2007 - 9:46 AM


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post Mar 22, 2007 - 11:28 AM
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sh0x



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QUOTE(applejax @ Mar 22, 2007 - 9:44 AM) [snapback]538711[/snapback]

soven makes some very good points as to why subs in the doors are very difficult.

If you put subs in the doors, you will need to totally seal them off, at minimum so the front is sealed from the back (this includes any other holes in the inside metal of the door). There are many other reasons why it is a tough idea to just consider getting the sub in a door correctly in the first place, but let's also examine some other issues if you did manage to get the subs in there.

You need mids and tweets up there, be they seperate components or stuck together in a coaxial speaker. Tweets (if seperate) are pretty easy to move around, but you'd need to have some sort of location for the mids, be it in custom kickpanels or in a further modification of the door itself (keep in mind here that the mid would need its own airspace, seperate from the sub).

A better option, given your concerns, would be to put the subs in your deck or trunk (coupe, right?), and either move those 6x9's, or more ideally get a nice coaxial or component set, into the doors.


See, here's the problem, it's not a coupe, it's a convertible. I already have barely enough room in the trunk to pack a couple suitcases when I travel. So installing in the trunk was out for me. Good news is, I just found out that these actually are free-air subs, and I just didn't realize it. See link below. So the thwack from the speaker must be that it's not installed tight enough in the door. That opening seems like it's not quite 8", so maybe I'll just have to ream it out a bit or fab some kind of slightly enlarged foam gasket to go between the speaker and opening.

http://www.bizrate.com/carsubwoofers/mtx-t...+subwoofer.html

As for the frequency range problem, The tweets on the doorjamb and the upgraded 2-way speakers in the back sound pretty good, right now I have no amp connected to the front sub at the moment and it sounds OK the way it is, minus the extra bass punch. I have a Profile HA700M amp and with the crossover set to midrange it puts through some decent vocals as well.

I was thinking for good measure of installing a center speaker I saw that goes where the sunglass pocket is under the deck. like this one:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-PB60yiDkftT/c...mp;i=500SBS05DC

Posts in this topic
- pepsiman   8-inch door speakers   Feb 6, 2007 - 7:39 PM
- - soven   Look into speakers instead of subs. as for rattles...   Feb 6, 2007 - 10:26 PM
|- - azian_advanced   QUOTE(soven @ Feb 6, 2007 - 9:26 PM)...   Feb 7, 2007 - 2:19 AM
- - pepsiman   thanks for the reply...i thought there was a how t...   Feb 6, 2007 - 11:12 PM
- - jess_i_74   Bass waves tend not to be very directional below a...   Feb 6, 2007 - 11:20 PM
- - soven   subwoofer under seat will work but there are hardl...   Feb 7, 2007 - 2:46 AM
- - rad1an7   Rattling sounds could also mean your sub is bad lo...   Feb 7, 2007 - 5:16 AM
- - jameslemanski   Ive got 8 inch kicker subs in my doors (RMB8's...   Feb 8, 2007 - 4:16 PM
- - pepsiman   Thanks for all the help could i get a free air sub...   Feb 8, 2007 - 5:13 PM
- - pepsiman   http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/p...79697...   Feb 8, 2007 - 5:18 PM
- - soven   i really suggest having a look at component speake...   Feb 8, 2007 - 6:02 PM
- - sh0x   I put Dynamat on my outer door skin and it didn...   Mar 21, 2007 - 11:18 AM
- - Negative   I wouldn't put sibs in the door just for the s...   Mar 21, 2007 - 3:03 PM
- - applejax   soven makes some very good points as to why subs i...   Mar 22, 2007 - 9:44 AM
|- - sh0x   QUOTE(applejax @ Mar 22, 2007 - 9:44...   Mar 22, 2007 - 11:28 AM
- - applejax   'verts are tough. Free-air doesn't mean...   Mar 22, 2007 - 12:57 PM
|- - sh0x   QUOTE(applejax @ Mar 22, 2007 - 12:5...   Mar 22, 2007 - 1:35 PM
- - applejax   Ah, sneaky, we switched people. Didn't catch ...   Mar 22, 2007 - 2:31 PM
- - sh0x   QUOTE(applejax @ Mar 22, 2007 - 2:31...   Mar 22, 2007 - 2:58 PM


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