Engine Keeps Cutting Off, pissed off & broke Options

[Jen]

I've had a problem with my car for the past month, and nothing we have had done seems to work.

The problem:
- Very low, and rough idle.
- Stalling.
- The engine cuts out no matter if I am stopped at a redlight, or if I am accelerating.

It can be fine one day, but terrible the next. If it cuts off, I can wait a few minutes and it comes back on. If I let it sit for 30+ minutes, it will work for the rest of the day and possibly the next. When it cuts off it's very random, and it forces me to not go to work, or I am late to work. I'm about to lose my job.

Things I have had done:
- I've had the injectors cleaned or something.
- New fuel pump.
- Replaced PVC Valve.
- Replaced IAC Valve.

Things it's not:
- The battery, or connections.
- The alternator, or connections.

Now they're telling me the distributer. Any other ideas? Discuss.

I totally put this in the wrong section, could one of the mods please move it?

This post has been edited by Jen: Apr 28, 2007 - 4:31 PM

[Hanyo]

this is a strange problem because: 1) the engine stalls under acceleration, 2) engine stalls when it is warm. 3) engine will not work right after stalling, but giving it time will let the engine work again.

So it can also be: these two problems. Since i don't own a GT. i dont know if the 5sfe has these sensor/ switches:

The Auto Shutdown Relay (ASD) - actually, this rarely breaks, but when it does, the engine stays off. One purpose of the auto shutdown relay is to avoid "dieselling." It kills all fuel delivery and spark. The ASD can be triggered by a broken wire or short in another place -e.g. the fuel pump.


The MAP sensor - another relatively frequent cause of stalling. This measures the air pressure in the manifold. It is usually mounted on a fender, costs around $25, and is very easy to replace. You can test it - if your car won't start, just unplug the electrical connection from the MAP sensor.