Toyota's FE engines Options

[pure_dx]

I want everyone's opinions on this one, I know there are a lot of boosted 5sfe and 7afe around here, and also non-boosted ones. But, seriously, is it just me or is the fe pretty much useless at top end. Well, I went to the local track and raced against an integra gs-r with i/h/e, i have the 7afe also with i/h/e, i beat him up to 3/4 of the way there, and the last quarter, he caught up to me, i guess his vtak kicked in y0. (Don't worry, his engine is not healthy at all and he couldn't hook.) But, pretty much, his top end just raped me. This got me thinking, not only this race, but a lot of races that i've done, my 7a pretty much craps out around 5-6k rpms after 1st gear. Is this just me or is anyone else experiencing this? 5sfe, 3sfe, 7afe, whatever ya got, discuss!

[milnersXcoupe]

Valves ?

- you can install some Ferra valves or Manley to take the 9K rpm gaff - along with new locks and Titanium keepers.

The cam you have IS a Torque Cam - power band 'spread's are normally 4,000 rpm - so after a 1,200 rpm launch your engine makes its' most power up to 6,000 rpm - at which point - the valve timing is no longer such that it is in sync with the engines speed - opening and closing at the wrong times - so your engine goes 'Flat'.

Measure out the distance from when your rival starts pulling on you until the end of the run - figure out what rpm you would be at if your engine kept pulling - > that is the rpm 'ceiling' that you want for your New Camshafts.... but I'd call it quits by 8,500 rpm [ cams normally will make another 500 rpm of power for any given grind ] - you might be gear'd wrong for the track [s] you run - run a different ring 'n pinion gear set.

Your Valve Springs are 'Tuned' to provide closing power in conjunction with the Lift / Duration / Valve Seat Pressure of the installed Camshaft - but yours are Not the correct 'Valve Seat Pressure' to handle 6,000 to 9,000 rpm.

At a 7k rpm ceiling - the springs will be too weak to pull the valves shut in time - so you get 'Valve Float' - can easily trash an engine floating the valves one too many times...

When you install new Valve Springs - you adjust their height by machining the head and their Valve Seat Pressures adjusted using shims - or a combination of both.

With more Lift and higher RPM ceilings - you need Valve Springs built of the correct Valve Spring Wire to get Values that will work
with that Higher Performance Camshaft[s].

With more Valve Lift your machinist will check the valve guides / stem lengths to see that there is
no collision going to occur.

Vance & Hines Racing in Ca. are the Premier street & race motorcycle engine builders - Toyota Engines
are just bigger Yamaha motorcycle engines - this is where the shim 'n bucket design stems from.

Vance & Hines have Valve Springs made for them and their customers - Top Shelf - buy a set of those.

Motorcycle 4 strokes can shift @ 11,000 rpm and keep on doing it virtually for the life of the Bike.

Most 'aftermarket' suppliers for Hi Po cars - if they know what they're doing - will sell you race motorcycle
valve springs for your Honda / Toyota etc. - Street HEMI - or Studebaker according to your Cam Specs.


You need a race cam that will Top Out around 8,500 rpm - with valve springs to match - race Titanium keepers - race valve locks.

I would also swap out the valves to something perhaps lighter - but such that the heads don't rip off at 9 grand - or 11 should you miss a shift - blow the clutch - scatter the trans.

When you do go to build yourself a racier engine - check with VENOLIA Piston Co. for their 'Ultra-Lite' versions along with their 'Ultra-Lite' Tool Steel Wrist Pins - engine will make RPM quicker and easily take 9 grand runs virtually forever.

If you're going Turbo - use their Turbo Pistons along with their 'Lightening' option - and Turbo Tool steel Wrist Pins - Teflon Buttons for either application - deletes the wrist pin locks which do fail.

VENOLIA are the leaders in road race - Top Fuel - Funny Car - Alky - etc. Racing Pistons - they are the lightest pistons available - been at this for decades.

I'd check on what connecting rods are installed as well for 9 grand rpm running - get the strongest connecting rod bolts available.

If you're going to run 9 grand - get rods for 9 grand rpm - not 11 grand - since those will be heavier.

Less weight is what it is all about when making RPM - have the crankshaft lightened and balanced as well.

This post has been edited by milnersXcoupe: Jun 15, 2007 - 3:05 PM