2 bar map sensor Options

[jesterwr217]

ok im currently using check valves and im wondering what i have to do to put a 2 bar map sensor on just take out the map sensor and put the new one in and replace the check valves with regular vac hosing? and i have an safc 2 what do i need to change on it so my ecu isnt all screwed up? and if anyone has a link to somewhere i can buy one that would be great

[Shocker]

This is What Brad sent me today.Should clear up anything i posted wrong.


Re: Hey Brad its Jack
Saw your message on 6gc. What I did was set it so its an 8 in 3 out. The 2bar map sensor sends out what would be considered an "8" signal in terms of an SAFC. Your car's stock map sensor and ecu use a "3". What I did was set it up so that the SAFC interpolates the "8" and makes it a usable signal to go into a "3" ecu. Its much better that way than just setting it up for 8 in 8 out or 3 in 3 out. With either of those you have to richen or lean the car all over the place to get it to even run. It looks to me like the celica guys dont understand what swapping to a 2bar sensor actually does. The ecu CANT SEE BOOST under any circumstance or else it will flip out. Using the stock 1bar sensor, somewhere around -700mm/hg is 0.0v and -10mm/hg to absolute pressure is 4.5 volts. In its normal NA setup WOT will give it somewhere around 4.5v and fuel and timing settings are used accordingly.

When you put in the 2bar sensor and dont set the SAFC up the way I did you run into several problems... First off, it ranges from around -700mm/hg at 0.0v to ~14.7psi at 5v. By putting that in the car it wont let it hit boost cut as soon as it sees boost because the car doesnt look for "boost" to hit it's boost cut, it looks for 5v. You'd have to get close to 14psi before you got to boost cut because thats where it would send a 5v signal. That being on there means that your car's fuel setting for driving around in vacuum would be in the bottom half of their normal scale.... basically using from 0.0v to 2.5v for vacuum. By that, when you're normally driving part throttle you're telling the car that its pulling FAR more vacuum than it is. For instance, driving the car stock you're going from full vacuum to near absolute constantly and over the whole 0-5v scale. Now with the 2bar sensor you're doing that with a 0-2.5v scale. The car isnt tuned from the factory to drive like that so it'll run like shat.

The second big problem is the way it times the motor. In NA trim when you get closer to absolute pressure your car pulls out timing. During vacuum it has more timing. With the 2bar sensor at say 5psi the car is thinking its still a good bit into vacuum and therefor giving it ALOT of timing. That is BAD!

Oh and one more bad thing about just having the 2bar sensor in there and richening/leaning the car as it needs to be... The car's ecu will learn what it wants and correct accordingly making any settings you dial in there obsolete.

With my settings in there:
1)The car starts and runs fine with all of the fuel settings ZERO'd
2)Wont hit boost cut as soon as it see's boost
3)Drives like its stock when its in vacuum
4)Still gives you 100% ability to set the SAFC however it needs to be under WOT
5)Hell, the damn check engine light TURNED OFF!!!!
6)Oh and it'll still hit boost cut if you get to ~14psi

The main thing these guys dont understand is that fuel pressure is what will allow your car to run correctly under boost, PERIOD. Thats the main thing that controls the fueling of EVERY car under boost. Now, your car may run fine on the stock FPR and it may not. It may need a simple 1:1 rate aftermarket FPR, it may need a 12:1 FMU. I'm not 100% sure yet. What I do know is that the car runs and drives like stock out of boost with a turbo on it and a 2bar map sensor. The fueling under boost is something that is still yet to be determined, but thats NOT what an SAFC is for.