I'm going FREAK OUT. ---MR2T Issues Options

[root]

Okay, so I've this mr2t, and it has this pretty big turbo on it. Spools somewhere around 4500rpm. I personally hate that fact. Its an sc61 56trim t3/t4

So heres the thing. I was talking to the mechanic who did most of the work on it before I owned, and he thought I was off my rocker for mentioning that I could find a gt28 or a td06-20g for pretty cheap wholesale. The cars runs pretty rich right now and it doesnt have much of an exhaust. It was open down pipe, but I had to put on some old n/a duce piping some I could just drive it and not attract cop attention. So he's like "well that tiny arse piping is causing ur problems", but I tell him, "it was ODP last week. It still ran like ****". It was converted from afm to map the cheap way with a HKS VPC, GCC. Kinda old school, and it was never dialed in. He's tellin me that the HKS is better than AFM, and that I'd be crazy to pull it off and convert back to AFM. Uuuggghh. I thought the afm would adjust better to air differences than the HKS. Its not like the TOYOTA AFM was engineered for the engine or anything .

So my question to all ye here is: Am I really crazy for wanting a gt28 ball-bearing turbo? Would this sc61 really spool that much faster if it was tuned? Yes, I know tuning can help, and I am not saying that its not important. But how much could it REALLY help with this huge freaking turbo? Its not gonna spool near what a BB turbo would, and a gt28 should put all the boost I would ever want, even when its forged and built, right? He's like "well that turbo will give you pressure when you need it later". I've seen folks with ct20b's do 17+ psi easy. Why do I need a turbo that was made a a single turbo supra? My friend's 2jz has a smaller single turbo than mine, and that car is insanely fast.


Sorry for the rant. I'm just a little on edge with that guy right now. You people have always been helpful to me and my Toyota cars. I just need some real advice and a place to vent.

Thanks

[x_itchy_b_x]

get it mechanically sound first. then go standalone, and have it tuned right.
then theres no reason why it shouldn't run great. i'd keep the turbo you have on there and tune the engine for that turbo. playing with the cams/timing can make a turbo spool alot quicker. also increasing VE will help that turbo spool quicker, like an intake manifold or aftermarket cams.

[root]

get it mechanically sound first. then go standalone, and have it tuned right.
then theres no reason why it shouldn't run great. i'd keep the turbo you have on there and tune the engine for that turbo. playing with the cams/timing can make a turbo spool alot quicker. also increasing VE will help that turbo spool quicker, like an intake manifold or aftermarket cams.

The reason it runs like crap is because of the fact that the crack-smoker who owned it last converted it to map, but never tuned the thing. And, to make matters worse, there is no o2 sensor on it at all. So the ecu has no clue what the mixture looks like, so it riches the heck out of it. So, yeah, I do need to get it running good. An actual o2 sensor would be a start. AFM would next. Unfortunately, the decision to pull the turbo has already been made. Somebody on mr2oc threw enough cash to convince me that it was a good idea. My manifold has a crack anyways. Small, but its there. For now, until I get enough money to properly get this car into the numbers the right way, a ct26 is lookin like the way to go. Just for now. I really need a quick fix so I can drive it to school and work.

Dont get me wrong. I'm sure that turbo would be sweet on a properly setup motor, but is it not way too much for my car? I just dont think a turbo should be this much further ahead of the rest of the setup.

But, then again, smarter than me have worked on these engines.

I hate you!

........lol. When I get it running right, I let you drive it sometime Ryan.

This post has been edited by root: Aug 18, 2007 - 6:26 PM