tocking when i stop, What the heck? |
tocking when i stop, What the heck? |
Feb 26, 2008 - 9:26 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Jan 18, '08 From Houston Currently Offline Reputation: 7 (100%) |
okay, so i just changed my rotors...
I did the pads as well, everything was done correctly. I live by the law of doing it once, and doing it right. However, with the new rotors, on the front driver side, there is a tocking noise when i stop (tick-TOCK) tock noise. I can feel it in my break pedal as well, and i had another member (an ace of trades) over this night to help me trouble shoot the problem... At first i thought it to be a loose clip (between the caliper and the pad) but i have readjusted it 3 times, and with my buddy over we did it again. This time we bent the flex of the clip to ensure proper connectivity. However it still tocked... It is a noise that you can not only hear, but feel as well in the pedal. It's driving me nuts. This was not an issue on the old rotors. Plus, i know for a fact that the rotors are not warped, it only does this on breaking. could i get any ideas? help? something? WTF? theese are nice rotors and i dont wanna revert back due to this... -------------------- QUOTE (presure2 @ Nov 6, 2010 - 6:16 AM) Via FB: fcuking awsome!!! D-man FTW! Damn D-Man - most impressive. D-Man's post should be a sticky LOL, oh boy, you can always count on D-Man for ridiculously hilarious posts. |
Feb 27, 2008 - 1:54 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Oct 7, '06 From wyomissing pennsylvania Currently Offline Reputation: 2 (100%) |
there should be 4 bolts in there, 2 17mm bolts that hold the cage thinger fast. then 2 14mm bolts that hold the caliper to the cage. when you start the 14mm bolts, they go through the caliper and theres a little nut in there somewhere, you need to hold that and tighten, otherwise it may just tighten itself into the caliper and not move correctly, or it will back out and become loose giving your caliper some play, so when you tap the brakes it allows the caliper to move. since you have slotted rotors, if the bad is at an angle aganst them instead of sitting flush, one of the corners may be making the tick tock noise as it falls into then pushes out of the rotor.
just a thought =/ but good luck edit - heres a pic, theres a round piece on the cage, then that nut, hold the nut with an open wrench, then put the bolt on and tighten down (like 30-40lbs) This post has been edited by jason: Feb 27, 2008 - 2:00 PM -------------------- you know why they put sheep at the edge of a cliff.... that way they push back!
(2:27:32 AM) edit: please f*cking work, f*ck, sh*t, piss (2:28:08 AM) edit: that did the trick |
Feb 27, 2008 - 2:37 PM |
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Enthusiast Joined Dec 19, '07 From tx Currently Offline Reputation: 22 (100%) |
QUOTE(jason @ Feb 27, 2008 - 1:54 PM) [snapback]646514[/snapback] since you have slotted rotors, if the bad is at an angle aganst them instead of sitting flush, one of the corners may be making the tick tock noise as it falls into then pushes out of the rotor. genius - we saw evidence of this on the corner of the offending pad. Now we're getting somewhere. D-man to answer your question - i have no idea where we would find the measurement for this however, we can measure mine and start from there. Or you could just change out those pesky rotors for my perfectly good working ones and problem solved This post has been edited by DEATH: Feb 27, 2008 - 2:38 PM -------------------- ENGINE: '93 RC 3S-GTE/WRC CT-20b [18-20PSI] PERF: TRD/HKS/ARP/NGK/MSD/ACT/Blitz/STRI/APEX'i/TwosRus/GReddy/Magnaflo/KOYO SUSP: Tein/Bilstein/SusTech/ INT: SS-III SEATS/Toyota Hyper Sports EXT: WRC/TRD/404 Its a safety feature so that people like you don't end up killing themselves or everyone around them. Slow down Paul Walker. 6GC Chat - Go there: [url="http://www.griffgirl.com/forum/chat/index.php[/url] |
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