HOW TO TURBOCHARGE THE 7AFE Options

[jesterwr217]

starting my own how to on turboing the 7a because there were some areas of the install where i just kinda had to make educated guesses so hopefully this will help others
Ok lets get started...
First removal:
To start off simply remove the stock headers and whatever intake you have on your car
Like nik lets start with the fuel setup:
Fist is the fuel pump. The stock 7a fuel pump is not sufficient enough to support a turbo setup so the plug and play alternative for our cars is the supra 255lph pump. First open you gas door and gas cap while doing this to relieve pressure. To get to the stock pump remove your rear seat and you will see a plate held on by 4 screws with an electrical harness going through it. remove this panel and you will see where the harness plugs into another panel, remove that harness to make the next panel more accessable. once you remove that harness remove the two lines attached to the top of the panel. the next step is to remove the 8-10 screws holding the second plate on and the fuel pump will come straight out. remove the pump and replace it with the new one then reinstall it in the car.
Now there are 2 different ways to continue this:
the first way is the "ghetto way" and is only safe to about 8psi. for this setup you will take the vortech fmu and run the bottom line to the fuel line comming from the back of the car and the top line to the fpr.



the vaccum port on the top will splice into the vaccum for the fuel pressure regulator



with this "ghetto" setup you will also use check valves in the vaccum line for your stock map sensor so it can see boost



now the correct way is forget about the fmu and the check valves, instead you replace your map sensor with the 3sgte 2 bar map



and use the supra 315cc lime green injectors



Oil Lines:
First we'll start with the feed line. You can order this kit from the same place i did and it comes with everything you will need. here The 7a has an oil temp sensor that provides a perfect tap point for the oil supply



use the supplyed t fitting and threaded fittings to create a t for the oil feed



attach the supplyed stainless steel line and we will come back to the feed line when we get the turbo in
remove your oil pan you will need to go to napa or some place like napa and get a 3/4 inch galvanized hose fitting. now what i did was take my pan and the fitting to an exhaust shop and had them drill a hole and weld it in.



on a side not do NOT use anything under 3/4 inch for the return line because you will restrict oil flow
tired of typing more to come tomorrow

This post has been edited by jesterwr217: Apr 9, 2008 - 10:05 PM

[presure2]

brass T fittings, rubber oil lines next to a 900+* turbo, and CHECK VALVES?!?!
getto.
all bad ideas IMO.
it may work for ya...for now.., but thats not how to get ANY turbo motor, especially a 7a or 5s, to run properly and more importantly RELIABLY for any length of time.

[jesterwr217]

brass T fittings, rubber oil lines next to a 900+* turbo, and CHECK VALVES?!?!
getto.
all bad ideas IMO.
it may work for ya...for now.., but thats not how to get ANY turbo motor, especially a 7a or 5s, to run properly and more importantly RELIABLY for any length of time.

not sure whats wrong with the t fittings but oil lines are fine but not the best stainless steel lines are the best and as i stated the check valves and fmu are not the right way to go about it

[presure2]

brass T fittings, rubber oil lines next to a 900+* turbo, and CHECK VALVES?!?!
getto.
all bad ideas IMO.
it may work for ya...for now.., but thats not how to get ANY turbo motor, especially a 7a or 5s, to run properly and more importantly RELIABLY for any length of time.

not sure whats wrong with the t fittings but oil lines are fine but not the best stainless steel lines are the best and as i stated the check valves and fmu are not the right way to go about it

well, brass Ts are a VERY bad idea, because they are brass.
brass is a soft metal, that fatiuges easily when subjected to the vibrations they see attached to an engine, especially if you tap into it for an oil feed for the turbo, and a pressure sender for an oil gauge.
what happens is, over time, the metal fatiuges to the point that it cracks. 99% of the time, it will crack when your driving, and before you have a chance to realize whats going on, all your oil is gone, and you've either blown your turbo, and or your motor, cause you didnt spend 25$ on a steel fitting like the tunertoys one.

those rubber lines may be ok, for a while.
they'll degrade quicky in that heat, probably end up splitting or cracking on ya, and spewing oil all over your hot manifold, and turbo.
hopfully, it wont melt things (including you) up too bad.

sorry if i come off as a bit rude, im really just trying to help you, and all the future guys who see this thread out.
this "whatever fits works" idea of turboing our motors just leads to more blown motors, and guys who end up saying "ahh its not worth it to turbo the 7a/5s motors, they cant handle boost, when in realitly, these motors can do quite nicely turbocharged, and be VERY reliable when its done RIGHT.
we need more SOLID turbo threads, and less of these "this is how to do it super cheap" ones.