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> Replaced radiator and rod bearings
post Apr 13, 2008 - 3:41 AM
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BeefyT



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I just got my car back from the mechanic. He replaced the radiator and the rod bearings. Everything seems to be running fine except when I take off in 1st gear. I can feel the pedals and and seat shake and the car seems to struggle taking off. It only happens for 2 seconds. Do you guys think it might be the clutch or something he did while replacing the rod bearings?

This post has been edited by BeefyT: Apr 13, 2008 - 5:46 AM


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post Apr 13, 2008 - 11:23 AM
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Bitter

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he replaced the rod bearings? and only the rod bearings? wtf mate. if your engine was damaged enough to need new rod bearings then odds are the crank should have been taken out, mic'd, turned, polished, and while you're at it do the main bearings as well.

thats like putting a plug in a bald tire, sure it works but you need a new tire. understand what i'm saying? i hate when shops just go for the quick and easy fix rather than doing it right. it makes me sound bad when i tell someone they need an engine because they have rod knock and they say 'well the shop down the road can do the rod bearings for $500 instead of the whole engine'. plugging a bald tire.


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post Apr 13, 2008 - 12:18 PM
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6G96GT

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QUOTE(Bitter @ Apr 13, 2008 - 11:23 AM) [snapback]664116[/snapback]

he replaced the rod bearings? and only the rod bearings? wtf mate. if your engine was damaged enough to need new rod bearings then odds are the crank should have been taken out, mic'd, turned, polished, and while you're at it do the main bearings as well.

thats like putting a plug in a bald tire, sure it works but you need a new tire. understand what i'm saying? i hate when shops just go for the quick and easy fix rather than doing it right. it makes me sound bad when i tell someone they need an engine because they have rod knock and they say 'well the shop down the road can do the rod bearings for $500 instead of the whole engine'. plugging a bald tire.



Here's a scenerio for ya...if you ran a compression test on your block which is stock with 172K and the test ran a near perfect reading AND you don't burn oil, leak oil, or smoke at all...would you consider going into the bottom end and replacing the bearings "just because" of the high mileage? ... or would you leave it alone? I'm only asking cause that's my situation. SORRY TO INTRUDE ON THE POST!!!
post Apr 13, 2008 - 1:00 PM
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stephen_lee



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QUOTE(6G96GT @ Apr 13, 2008 - 5:18 PM) [snapback]664129[/snapback]

QUOTE(Bitter @ Apr 13, 2008 - 11:23 AM) [snapback]664116[/snapback]

he replaced the rod bearings? and only the rod bearings? wtf mate. if your engine was damaged enough to need new rod bearings then odds are the crank should have been taken out, mic'd, turned, polished, and while you're at it do the main bearings as well.

thats like putting a plug in a bald tire, sure it works but you need a new tire. understand what i'm saying? i hate when shops just go for the quick and easy fix rather than doing it right. it makes me sound bad when i tell someone they need an engine because they have rod knock and they say 'well the shop down the road can do the rod bearings for $500 instead of the whole engine'. plugging a bald tire.



Here's a scenerio for ya...if you ran a compression test on your block which is stock with 172K and the test ran a near perfect reading AND you don't burn oil, leak oil, or smoke at all...would you consider going into the bottom end and replacing the bearings "just because" of the high mileage? ... or would you leave it alone? I'm only asking cause that's my situation. SORRY TO INTRUDE ON THE POST!!!


compression and leaking oil has nothing to do with your bearings. all you HAVE to take off is the oil pan.
if it has a knock, i would


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