How To Replace Your Timing Belt/Water Pump, with detailed info and pictures Options

[azian_advanced]

How To Replace The Timing Belt and/or Water Pump on a 5SFE
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Disclaimer:
I hold no responsibility for anything that breaks, any personal injuries, any damage to the vehicle, or any unexpected results caused by this how-to.

Related Thread:

• How to Replace the Timing Belt on a 3SGTE by Insanity-74

Tools Used:



* I'm not gonna label each and every single tool used because there's too many to list.

**Just to give you a general idea, you absolutely NEED a full assortment of ratchets, sockets, extensions,
screw drivers, wrenches, two hydraulic jacks, jack stands, pulley puller, crowbar (or breaker bar),
some sort of marker (ie touch up paint or 'White-Out'), a way in sorting out nuts & bolts removed, determination and patience.

***It's optional to have: set of pliers, a short pick, a hammer, some liquid gasket maker,
a pipe (used as an extension for tight bolts), and impact ratchets (makes doing/undoing bolts faster).






Parts to Order:



Timing Belt
13568-09041 (for 5SFE)
13568-19056 (for 7AFE)



Water Pump Kit (Water Pump Gaskets are included)
16100-79185-83 (for 5SFE)
16100-19305-83 (for 7AFE)



Thermostat and Thermostat Gasket
90916-03046 & 16325-63011 (for both 5SFE & 7AFE btwn 94-95)
90916-03090 & 16325-63011 (for 5SFE btwn 96-99)
90916-03115 & 16325-63011 (for 7AFE btwn 96-99)



Coolant (If you're replacing your water pump)







Follow this guideline here as well:
**** http://www.celicatech.com/93rmsour/1993/93...a/em/timin0.pdf






Intro
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My car is now at 125,270 kms (77,806 miles). Although, still a bit young but a good age to do a timing belt change as it has never been done since it came from the factory. I think 13 years, regardless of mileage, is long enough of a reason to have it replaced. So why not just get a complete tune up?
So I bought a bunch of OEM tune up parts recently: timing belt, water pump, thermostat, TRD oil filters, coolant, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, oxygen sensor, and a few other bits that were missing from my car.

I've already done the easy half of the tune up. The distributor cap and rotor were replaced. New spark plug wires were put on. My spark plugs are still new so I didn't bother getting new ones. An oil change was done just a few days ago.





Now comes for the harder half of the tune up: timing belt and water pump replacement.
For this, it's best to have everything in the timing belt area to be changed. This consists of also replacing both idler and tensioner pulleys but due to the lack of funds, I didn't order them.

After a lot of searching for possible how-to's or guides to changing a timing belt, the only one I found useful was the BGB manual on CelicaTech.net found here. The most discouraging part of the search was the numerous comments made about this being a very difficult task and that someone with an 'average' level of mechanical experience is better off getting it professionally done by an expert. This is my first time doing a timing belt change or anything regarding an engine that simply isn't 'bolt-on' per se or had anything to do with regular maintenance. After successfully completing this for the first time, I would agree to what everyone says. It's a lot of work, requires a lot of tools, can be very frustrating having to set the timing right by the 'tooth'. But the big question is:

"Was it worth doing this myself? or should I have forked out a few hundred dollars out of my own pocket and have had a professional do this for me?"

That all depends on the individual. After reading this guideline, one must decide whether it would be worth his or her time provided that he/she has the necessary tools to attempt such a task..

imo, with my dad's tools and garage and my desire to learn more about celicas and engines in general, it was definitely worthwhile doing this myself.









Procedure
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1. Put the car on jackstands. Don't lift it too high but high enough that the hydraulic jack will reach the bottom of the engine oil pan for lifting. Ensure you have a lot of room around to work with.






2. Place some sort of soft cloth (or that pad that mechanics use) to cover the body around the engine bay so that one could lean over without damaging the paint.


Something bigger than what I used would have been a lot better.




3. Disconnect the negative terminal from your battery. Remove the strut bar (a combination of 14mm on the firewall and 12mm bolts on the strut mounts if you are using the stock one). Remove the harnesses attached to the alternator. Loosen the rear 14mm bolt pivoting the alternator to the motor. Loosen the 12mm clamping bolt on the side to allow the alternator to adjust. Now loosen the top bolt on the alternator bracket to lower the alternator. This loosens the belt for the next step.







4. Now that the belt is loose, remove it. Now, remove the rear bolt pivoting the alternator and the clamping bolt on the side. Remove the alternator.






5. Remove the passenger side wheel. Remove the passenger side lower splash guard. If you're replacing your water pump, drain your coolant. The drainage plug is located on the lower passenger side of the radiator. The plug looks like a winged nut and can be undone without tools. Make sure the engine has already cooled down before draining the system.



This post has been edited by azian_advanced: Aug 10, 2011 - 7:37 AM

[_mikeE]

Awesome how-to gerald! very informational you are as always!
PS, loosening the front bolt of the altewrnator loosen rear screws and removing belt and raising the alternator upwards would be a good step to do for those who want to install the ebay headers in their GT's.