What to torque it to?, 6 hexhead inner cv bolts Options

[6gsillyca]

EDIT:

Can someone please tell me what the 6 hexhead bolts should be torqued to? My manual lists:

hub nut - 137 ft-lbs
driveaxle inner cv joint-to-differential side gear shaft flange - 27 ft-lbs
right driveaxle centre bearing bracket bolts - 47

None of these seem correct, but since my axles are *non-stock* I'm not sure what the technical part term would be for them.

END EDIT




I need to replace my outer cv boot. I was looking into getting a new axle shaft, because I have read it is easier to RnR the whole axle rather than individual parts (axle, cv joint, cv boot etc). Then you also shouldn't need to worry about any damage to your joint because of the craked boot.

I need to know what parts to order though. Cv boot is on the front pass wheel. Would the axle half come with both inners and outers, and then would I need to RnR the inner with the e153 inner from my current set-up?

Would someone be able to explain what the inner and outer axles are, and how/where the inner attaches to the outer?

Here is a link to my thread in another sextion, but I thought the boosted guys might know the e153/st185 axles a bit better.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=57022

This post has been edited by 6gsillyca: Apr 15, 2008 - 12:42 AM

[alltracman78]

48 lb/ft
Make SURE you use BLUE thread lock too. These bolts LOVE to loosen.
It's easiest to tighten with an impact or air wrench.

Attach the inner joint first.
Are the stock bolts long enough? They look too short? :shrug:

You're supposed to have a cork gasket there to seal the grease in. Otherwise it likes to leak out.

To get the tie rod out you need to remove the cotter pin and nut first, then bang the side of the knuckle where it sits until it pops out.

Make sure you tighten the wheel nut good, if you don't you can damage the wheel bearing.