What to torque it to?, 6 hexhead inner cv bolts Options

[6gsillyca]

EDIT:

Can someone please tell me what the 6 hexhead bolts should be torqued to? My manual lists:

hub nut - 137 ft-lbs
driveaxle inner cv joint-to-differential side gear shaft flange - 27 ft-lbs
right driveaxle centre bearing bracket bolts - 47

None of these seem correct, but since my axles are *non-stock* I'm not sure what the technical part term would be for them.

END EDIT




I need to replace my outer cv boot. I was looking into getting a new axle shaft, because I have read it is easier to RnR the whole axle rather than individual parts (axle, cv joint, cv boot etc). Then you also shouldn't need to worry about any damage to your joint because of the craked boot.

I need to know what parts to order though. Cv boot is on the front pass wheel. Would the axle half come with both inners and outers, and then would I need to RnR the inner with the e153 inner from my current set-up?

Would someone be able to explain what the inner and outer axles are, and how/where the inner attaches to the outer?

Here is a link to my thread in another sextion, but I thought the boosted guys might know the e153/st185 axles a bit better.
http://www.6gc.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=57022

This post has been edited by 6gsillyca: Apr 15, 2008 - 12:42 AM

[Silver94CelicaOw...]

Yea its an 8mm Hex, and I'll bet money on it. Haha.


Make sure you use a good quality Moly grease, and work it into those axle bearings!! I usually just pack it right in as best I can into the bearing race, the retaining basket for the bearings, and the rubber boot.

You want as much of the grease in that area of the axle to avoid metal on metal contact, allowing it to move freely under load. Like Jeremy said, be sure to seal the surface when you bolt it up with the gasket and some thread lock to avoid making a mess or havng the bolts back themselves out from the vibrations in the drivetrain.

I only ever use hand tools on the axle so that I can feel that its threading properly. Then I torque the six bolts down to around 40-45 ft/lbs on both sides, making sure theres even torque all the way around.




In a side note though, you shouldn't need to pop out the outer tie-rod from the hub at all. When the three 17mm bolts that secure the lower ball joint are removed, you can pull the whole strut assembly upwards and out of the suspension A-arms. Theres enough pivot there to remove the axle from the hub, no problems.

If you did have to remove the tie-rod from the hub, you would remove the pin and remove the castle nut from the bottom and then use a ball joint popper or Pitman joint puller. Sort of like this:

Pitman Joint puller-



3-jaw puller-




The jaws of the puller will sit right on the hub/steering knuckle, and you can push right against the threaded portion on the bottom of the joint. This way you aren't beating up on the tie-rod end at all, it will just pop right out of the steering knuckle with minimal effort instead.

I picked up a Pitman joint puller (like the one in the first pic) from NAPA to seperate my tie-rods, and it worked like a charm.





6gsillyca, are you using some sort of spacer setup on that side?



-Corey

This post has been edited by Silver94CelicaOwner: Apr 21, 2008 - 5:19 PM